Friday, April 29, 2011

Royal wedding gown revealed

Kate Middleton brought back the long-absent matrimonial veil and train.

The monthslong speculation over just what Kate Middleton's wedding gown would look like ended last night, with the newly minted royal wearing a gown designed by Alexander McQueen successor Sarah Burton.

Fashion writer Robin Givhan reported in The Daily Beast: "The Alexander McQueen wedding dress that Kate Middleton wore to marry Prince William was a glorious sweep of ivory and white silk gazar with hand-embroidered English and French Chantilly lace and 58 organza-covered buttons snaking up the back. It had a discreet v-neck, long lace sleeves and a train that measured nearly nine feet long. Middleton’s slender waistline was emphasized by the gown’s narrow bodice and slight padding at the hips—a nod to Victorian style. It was a dignified acknowledgement of Arts and Crafts tradition but bore the streamlined, body-enhancing silhouette of contemporary fashion."

Earlier in the week I had asked bridal boutique owners Gladys Agsalud of Casablanca Bridal, and Cecilia Domingo of The Bridal Boutique what they imagined her gown would look like, and they nailed it, with an eye on tradition, fine fabric and elegance that speaks to Kate's personal style.


Grace Kelly's 1956 gown.

They spoke of the return to tradition and the retro glamour of Grace Kelly's marriage to Prince Ranier of Monaco in 1956.

Her sense of style has long been evident, such that way back in December, when speculation began and designers started coming up with their own illustrations as to what they would design for Kate, I posted that I liked Monique Lhullier's vision best: simple, streamlined, elegant, with a close fitting lace bodice.

Casablanca carries Lhullier's gowns and I chose one for the styling in HI Luxury's latest issue, in a session called "Happily Ever After," paying homage to the royal wedding.

I think any fashion observer would have hoped for tradition combined with a bit of an edge, something a little more ground-breaking. Given all the speculation and excitement leading up to the event, I just wanted a little more dazzle worthy of the international stage. Givhan said as much when she wrote: “It was the most beautiful dress that was destined, doomed to be a disappointment—if only because so much was expected of it.”

But the morning after, the photos look beautiful, and true-to-form, Kate showed herself to be a sensible, tasteful, understated young woman, and that should suit her well as she makes her life in the public eye. Perhaps she’s sending a message that she doesn’t need to be a fashion icon if to be such detracts from William’s more important agendas. As an anti-Diana, she may be just what the troubled monarchy needs right now.

What was interesting is that the bridal owners said that a celebrity wedding always sends brides clamoring for the latest trend, and now, they'll all want to look like Kate, reversing a seven-year trend in informal strapless gowns and toward traditional lace and veils.

You would think that on her big day, a bride would want to be unique and true to her own personality and aesthetic on her day, but, like all most of fashion, trends and imitation rule. I always wanted a 1920s-style flapper dress for my own wedding.

Thursday, April 21, 2011

Hello Kitty designer Yuko Yamaguchi tells all about kitty's past


Nadine Kam photo
Hello Kitty designer, director and general manager Yuko Yamaguchi is in town to meet with fans of the iconic kitty at Sephora Ala Moana, where the Hello Kitty Beauty collection is being launched from 6 to 8 p.m. today, April 21.

It's no wonder so many people love Hello Kitty. Hers is the classic underdog story — the high school loser turned It Girl, the ugly duckling blossoming into beautiful swan according to designer Yuko Yamaguchi, who rescued the mouthless kitty from what might have been a sad fate.

Hello Kitty was initially introduced in 1974 by another Yuko, Yuko Shimizu, but by the time Yamaguchi joined the Sanrio company as a young newcomer, Kitty was an underperforming black sheep of the Sanrio family.

As the lowest designer on the totem pole in the early 1980s, she was the third designer assigned to work on Hello Kitty, and disappointed in the prospect.

Although Yuko certainly looks the part of the Hello Kitty fan in her sweet Lolita dress, she said she's had the same style since she was in high school, and over the years, has come to feel that "I feel like Hello Kitty has come to resemble me over time, coming over to my style."

Through a Japanese interpreter, Aya Seto, she said, "All Sanrio designers back then, including myself, did not want to be the Hello Kitty designer. Everyone knew Hello Kitty was not selling well. The second designer was often scolded for not producing a character that sells well, so it was not quite a prize. I just thought, 'What am I supposed to do with this?'

Thursday, April 14, 2011

An Hermès-inspired afternoon

Nadine Kam photos
Hermès CEO Robert Chavez with Tiana and Nobuhide Torii.

Tiana Torii hosted an intimate luncheon at her home April 2, welcoming friends including Hermès CEO Robert Chavez, who's been a friend of hers ever since he joined the company a decade ago. Based in New York, he tries to visit the islands twice a year, as well as other boutique locales around the world.

A humble and low-key gentleman, he said he's sometimes mistaken for a sales associate in the stores, but like TV's "Undercover Bosses," it gives him a good idea of clientele's wishes and concerns.

As always, no detail was overlooked. The table was dressed with gold and silver placemats, with flowers in pinks and oranges, reflecting Hermès signature box color. Afterward, I was wondering how the orange came to be, and a quick Internet search led me to the Contessanally blog, where the orange was attributed to the only color of paperboard available during World War II scarcity. Maybe someone from Hermès will be able to confirm the story.

Limited-edition Hermès scarves were hung over the living room from second-floor balconies.

To add to the color of the afternoon, Tiana also managed to string up some of her own Hermès scarves, hanging like banners over her living room. She tried to explain how it was done, but I have such a lack of mechanical skill that my mind was boggled. It somehow involved pitching the string-fastened scarves across the room and hoisting.

The scarves she chose had particular significance because they were all limited editions, including two aloha scarves, one created for the opening of the Ala Moana Center Hermès boutique and one commemorating the Hawaii World Festival. There was also a United Nations scarf and the Bolduc au Carre, that is a signature of the luxury brand.

With lunch prepared by Le Bistro chef Alan Takasaki and his staff, it was a beautiful, relaxed way to spend a Saturday afternoon. What a treat!

The Toriis' giant yellow Bearbrick had a limited edition Waikiki twilly tied around his wrist while carrying the limited edition Picotin bag from the Waikiki Hermès opening, as well as a classic orange Birkin (30 cm).

Chef Alan Takasaki of Le Bistro created a luxurious meal that started with several appetizers before guests were seated. It was so food intense, I didn't know at the time whether to write about it on this blog or Take A Bite. Most events easily fit one category or the other, but Tiana understood the quandary. Noting that I write about food and fashion, she said, "I have both!"

Lunch guests Charlyn Honda Masini, left, and Tammy Browning, with goodie bags from Hermès, bearing catalogs, a scarf-tying guide and sweets.

Guests Kristi Komeya, left, and Joyce Aoki.

Nobu at the table, with flowers, below.


We thought the four-hour lunch was over with the arrival of white and pink macarons, but the real dessert of a Gianduja chocolate souffle was still to come. By that time, most of us had to leave, but about half of us decided we couldn't let those gold-leafed soufflés go to waste. They were definitely worth the time. We could have easily enjoyed two apiece, but I think just one would break anyone's diet for the week.

Another Bearbrick held the Japan flag in solidarity with our sister nation.

Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Students show eco-chic style


Photos courtesy of Ward Centre
Students from the University of Hawaii at Manoa APDM program are competing in an Earth month contest this month. Vote for your favorite trash-chic garment through April 27. This dress comprises shopping bags from Ward tenant Sedona.

Trash is chic at Ward Centre, where manikins were dressed with garments and accessories crafted from recyclables such as plastic bags, soda cans and bottle rings on April 2 by students from the University of Hawaii at Manoa's Apparel Product Design & Merchandising Program, in an Earth month design competition.

The manikins will be displayed through April 27, allowing shoppers to vote for their favorite design at the display site at the Borders end of the center. As an incentive, each person who votes—with a limite of one vote per shopper per day—will be entered to win a $100 Ward Centers dining certificate.

The students are also gearing up to present their 45th annual Senior Fashion Show May 1 at East-West Center. To accommodate as many people as possible, there will be a noon matinee show and 4 p.m. show, with tickets available for $25.


Students worked on their designs from 10 a.m. to noon.


Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Pop Iroiro's got 'Soul Surfer'


The latest issue of Rae Huo and Zakkamono's online magazine Pop Iroiro is out, featuring Rae's fashion pictorial with actor Cody Gomes, who co-stars in "Soul Surfer," about Kauai surfer Bethany Hamilton.

At the end of the "book," you can go to Facebook to enter to win two prize packages (one men's, one women's) from Cody and Island Snow, which provided many of the garments and accessories in the fashion feature. The winner will be announced April 18.

Saturday, April 9, 2011

Island Slipper on the move

Nadine Kam photos
Dorothy Kohashi, left, daughter of Island Slipper founders Takizo and Misao Motonaga, and Geri Motonaga, wife of the couple's son and longtime designer Eddy Motonaga, were special guests at the soft reopening of the new Island Slipper store in its new location on the ewa end of Ward Warehouse.

Island Slipper celebrated a soft reopening and blessing of its store at Ward Warehouse on April 1, with a grand "Slippahpalooza" celebration to come, open to the public from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. April 16, with performances by Makana, Jeff Peterson, Puamana and Ernie Cruz Jr., throughout the day.

The store, at the ewa end of the mall, is easily double the size of its old quarters, and is full of dozens of men's and women's slippers and sandals, all still created in Hawaii, just as when company founders Takizo and Misao Motonaga started the company with the Baba family in 1946.

At the time, due to World War II, supplies were hard to find, so they used old tires to fashion the soles, and we can credit Takizo with the familiar left and right slipper shapes we see today. In his day, they had a symmetrical rectangular shape that was based on the Japanese zoris.

Anyone who grew up through the 1950s to 1970s are probably familiar with slippers adorned with floral straps because the slippers were widely carried by almost every large island retailer. The market wasn't divided into various niches the way it is today, so shoppers could find them at Liberty House, Sears, JC Penney, and, having grown up in Waipahu, I could only think my mom bought my pairs at Arakawa's. Dorothy Kohashi, the daughter of the Motonagas, and their daughter-in-law Geri Motonaga confirmed that Arakawa's was among their retailers.
Island Slipper has long been known for its brightly colored slippers in tropical, floral and Hawaiian motifs, including the kapa print fabric, below, at $51.95. The floral styles above are $64.95.


Geri and Dorothy said they never envisioned a day when the company would grow enough to have its own retail outlet. The family sold the business to John Carpenter in 1985. At the time, Geri's husband Eddy, a longtime designer for the company, felt the business was waning due to the arrival of cheap imports in the islands. Island Slipper's designer styles seemed to disappear amidst the sea of generic rubbah slippahs that could be had for a few dollars.

But Dorothy said, "John was a family friend who had terrific ideas. No one else could have done this. We're so proud and happy he did it. I'm so happy for him."

John said he is often asked why he doesn't move production to China for cost efficiency, but it's that kind of mentality and attempt at cost-cutting that has led to loss of jobs in this country, to the detriment of all. Besides, he said, "It would be like we lost our soul," and would no longer be able to call Island Slipper a kama'aina or Hawaii company. By continuing to operate a factory in Pearl City, he's able to say, "We're like Coke; we're the real thing."

Island Slippers are popular in Japan, and according to John, his men's styles will be appearing on Paris's runways this summer. They are definitely special, and have international appeal, with their contemporary designs and prints, and use of interesting materials including madras fabric and pony hair.

The Motonaga family sold the company to John Carpenter, above, with his wife Daisy, in 1985. At the time, Geri said, business was difficult because of cheap imports entering the market.

A 1970s Island Slipper advertisement showing sandals designed by Eddy Motonaga from the company's brochure.


Models from Paris admire Island Slipper's spring collection in a Halekulani photo that appears to date to the late '50s or early '60s.

Friday, April 8, 2011

Proenza Schouler duo drop into Catherine's Closet

Nadine Kam photos
Capes will be big come fall, and Catherine Fong of Catherine's Closet wears a vintage piece while showing a 1970s suede version.

Catherine Fong of Catherine's Closet hosted a 1970s celebration April 1 at her new location at 125 Merchant St.

The 1970s theme was inspired by Barneys Japan's premiere of the Catherine's Closet Collection, a popup shop within the Tokyo store, which will open April 23 and continue for approximately three weeks.

After a feature on the vintage boutique appeared on Japanese television, Barney's Tokyo executives flew a buyer out to Catherine's to seek out pieces worthy of the high-end retailer. The buyer was particularly smitten by 1970s pieces and bought several dozen maxi dresses, feather hats and 30 Panama hats for resale in the popup boutique, as well as a red cape for her own use.

The boutique also had another brush with fame when a friend of Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez—together known as the designers behind Proenza Schouler—contacted me via Facebook regarding the best places for vintage shopping in Hawaii. There's not many with the quality vintage enthusiasts expect, but I was able to share a short list that included Catherine's Closet.

The designers were apparently thrilled and went home with 1960s and 1970s pieces, including a maxi dress, a purse and three short dresses. They were especially happy to find something Catherine could only describe as a "hair dress." She didn't get the term they used. But, could it be safe to guess we may find a bit of vintage Hawaii inspiration on their next runway?

Catherine's Closet will celebrate it's birthday on April 29, and 10 percent of sales at the boutique throughout this month will go toward Japan relief efforts.

The boutique is open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Mondays to Fridays. Call 521-0772.

Kimberly Mitsuoka wears a 1970s jumpsuit next to a Catherine's Closet display of more '70s apparel.

Greta Gallardo spotted this vintage dress, tried it on and bought it on the spot. She has a great figure for vintage clothes, made at times when people were skinny and a 22-inch waist for women wasn't considered drug- or anorexia-related.


Another dress Greta tried on.

Catherine's Closet is known for its selection of vintage hats. She has a lot of white styles in stock, as well as feathered pieces, noting that Prince William's and Kate Middleton's royal wedding is coming up, and contemporary as she is, Kate tends to favor smaller feather pieces in lieu of hats. Below, Catherine wears a feathered clip by local "seamster" Sandra Ipo Bunnell.


Kellie Phyu already has a couple of vintage gold Whiting & Davis mesh purses, but was trying to decide which of these two to pick up next.

Friday, April 1, 2011

'TRANSITOPIA' hottest ticket in town for fashion fans

Tickets are on sale for the Honolulu Community College student fashion show, "TRANSITOPIA," are on sale now, and I'm told there will be some very special guests on hand, so "Project Runway" fans just might want to pick up their tickets early.

The event will take place at 7 p.m. April 23 at the HCC Automotive Department at 445 Kokea St. Tickets are $25 per person and will include heavy pupu. Students will be donating a portion of the ticket sales to the Japan Relief fund.
    
Graduating seniors will open the show with mini shows to showcase their individual collections. Each mini show will have its own set and theme with students competing for awards for design in both set and fashion.

Call the HCC Fashion Technology department at 845-9203 for tickets.

Shop A Le'a finale


Nadine Kam photo and videos
One of my favorite looks, from Spiral Girl, from Ala Moana magazine's Spring Trends show, one of the finale events for Ala Moana Center's Shop A Le'a.

Last week's Ala Moana Center Shop A Le'a left me exhausted. With so many events going on, rushing there and back to the office before returning again for events later at night for certain events, I felt the same kind of stressed energy as at New York's Fashion Week.

At one point I had to gas up the car and was in such a rush I drove off with the gas cap on top of the trunk. So then I had to make an extra trip to BMW for a $31 replacement. Grrr!

It was the best model I've seen for what a true fashion week could be like here, with its six days of events and fashion shows, with a quartet of local designer collection launches. Both Richie Miao and Andy South received much-deserved standing ovations for their respective Lovelessizm and South by Andy South showcases.

It's just great that we have designers who have the know-how to entertain while presenting their stories on stage.



This is something I talked about a while back with Lynne Hanzawa O'Neill, who presented her "Rules of the Runway" March 26 on Centerstage, and recapped her March 23 "Catwalk 101" tips.

I asked her once how she could be so relaxed during New York Fashion Week when she's producing more than a dozen shows in a week's time. She said what makes it easy is that it's very turn-key there. Most of the official shows are in one location, so the set up, all the lighting and sound technicians are in place. I even see the same security guards year after year.

Shows start on time because the designers know they have to be out of a venue so the next one can be set up. It gets to be very formulaic, something we don't have here because there is no established venue and every designer starts from scratch, which is hard.

I think any kind of Fashion Week here should ideally be in one venue. It's too hard to get around here because of traffic. (We should have built rail 30 years ago.) Many people who wanted to catch the shows missed them because they were stuck in traffic. That's one of the things so great about New York. I could easily cover any 40 blocks in 15 to 20 minutes, so never missed a show due to geography. Through oversleeping after staying up til 5 a.m. some days, yes.