Kini Zamora scores first 'Project Runway' win on rainway

Nadine Kam photos
Designer Kini Zamora is back in town after New York’s Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, and gathered with friends and family to watch the latest episode of “Project Runway” at Pau Hana Lounge. As for what’s new with the designer, check out my interview to appear in print Thursday.

‘PROJECT RUNWAY’ SEASON 13
Episode 8: The Rainway

The designers faced an avant garde challenge this week, with a twist. Instead of a normal runway, their designs had to be waterproofed for a rainway, a concept new to most of them.

The first time I saw a rainway was during Yohji Yamamoto’s Adidas Y-3 New York Fashion Week show in fall of 2007, when he made it rain under the yet-to-be-developed High Line. We were like “What?” as we waited for staffers with umbrellas to escort us to the bleacher seating.

Inspired by the idea of rain, Hawaii designer Kini Zamora—back in town following his showing on the Mercedes Benz New York Fashion Week runway—set about creating an umbrella style skirt.

Once again, his main competitor was Sean Kelly whose idea was a bit of genius, making use of the water in a way that would transform his garment. He created a very simple white dress, but poured Rit powder dyes into seams so that when water hit, it would start bleeding color.

He knew it was a risk, but one well worth taking. Even so, I thought it was somewhat derivative of the work of Alexander McQueen, who in 1999, had robots spray paint a white dress modeled by Shalom Harlow, who stood on a rotating platform so the pattern circled the dress. Now, THAT, was a remarkable moment. Sadly, a lot of young designers today seem clueless when told they are referencing other designers because they haven’t studied enough fashion history. I think if Kelly knew of McQueen’s work, he might have created something other than a simple white dress to appear less like a copycat.

Metropolitan Museum of Art
Alexander McQueen’s spraypainted dress.

Kini Zamora with one of his Honolulu Community College instructors, Joy Nagaue, who was able to attend the “Project Runway” New York Fashion Week show in my place.

And although Zamora’s design was new to the judges, it’s been done quite frequently here, particularly by a number of University of Hawaii at Manoa design students intrigued by the folds of origami.

Zamora’s finished work, made of Lycra masquerading as glossy PVC fabric, looked something like a fetish-y dominatrix Catwoman meets “Wicked” character.

Amanda Valentine confesses to liking his garment, saying, “There’s something creepy about it,” before adding, “I like it. I kinda wish he would design like this for every challenge.”

Judge Nina Garcia called his work “sublime,” and judge Zac Posen praised his “skillful hand” and technique.

In the end, the judges could not decide between Zamora’s and Kelly’s designs, and both were declared winners. It was a great moment for Kini, watching the episode at Pau Hana Lounge with friends and family, who cheered and toasted his win. Someone remarked, loudly, “He should have won the last four!”

Sadly, Korina Emmerich should have been sent home for her grade-school Halloween project creation, but she had immunity, so Fäde zu Grau was sent home for his sportswear look. It was deemed too simple by the judges.

Lifetime photos
Judges admired Kini Zamora’s design down to the gloves that judge Zac Posen deemed difficult to make.

Sean Kelly’s white dressed transformed in the rain with the help of Rit dyes inserted into seam lines.

Korina’s creation may have been the worst of the season. She was fortunate to have had immunity.

Following is a link to my past post on Alexander McQueen’s “Savage Beauty” show at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, as well as a video of the spraypainting robots:

http://blogs.starbulletin.com/fashiontribe/taking-in-mcqueens-savage-beauty/

http://youtu.be/P13oZsD-t4s

'Project Runway': A scary moment for Kini Zamora

Lifetime photos
Kini Zamora’s design is scrutinized on the runway.

‘PROJECT RUNWAY’ SEASON 13
Episode 7: Priceless Runway

This week, the designers walk into the studio to find showcases full of Chopard jewelry. The pieces become the inspiration for compatible evening gowns.

As last week’s winning designer, Sean Kelly pickes first and his choice is a show-stopping flared bib of what looks like giant sapphires and diamonds. Hawaii designer Kini Zamora goes next and opts for a much simpler pair of diamond hoop earrings and statement ring.

He received a lot of screen time, which in the “Project Runway” universe could mean he wins, or gets the boot. (Getting ahead of the series though, please see my previous post.)

Before the designers start working, mentor Tim Gunn walks into the workroom with the news that he is using his one “save” to bring Char Glover, who was sent home last week, back into the competition. There are no more saves for the rest of the season.

Next, the designers take a field trip to the Metropolitan Museum of Art to see the exhibition, “Charles James: Beyond Fashion.” The 20th century couturier was a master of innovative ball gowns and the exhibition offers insight into their construction.

Kini decides to do a hard/soft dress with a neoprene bustier mini dress covered with floor-length draped silk chiffon. Mentor Tim Gunn worries about the “bullet” darts and expresses fear about the length, which he calls borderline “hoochie.” Later speaking to the cameras, Kini says he is not a hoochie designer.

On the runway, the judges spot construction issues with Kini’s work due to the nature of the neoprene and they say they wish he had chosen different fabric. He ends up in the bottom three, but is lucky that Samantha Plasencia created a plain gown that judges deem boring. At this point in the competition, taking risk is more important than playing it safe, and Kini is one week closer to New York Fashion Week.

Look who’s coming back to town, and you’re invited to join him for a screening of “Project Runway.”

Korina Emmerich picks up her first win for this gorgeous ensemble. I think she picked the most stunning jewelry piece that was perfectly suited to her design.

Samantha Plasencia went home for a simple gown judges said looked more like what an intern would wear, rather than an important person. No argument there.
———
Nadine Kam is Style Editor and staff restaurant critic at the Honolulu Star-Advertiser; her coverage in print on Wednesdays and Thursdays. Contact her via email at nkam@staradvertiser.com and follow her onTwitter, Instagram and Rebel Mouse.

'Project Runway's' Tim Gunn pops up in Honolulu

Photo courtesy of Tiki's Grill & Bar
In a Facebook post dated Aug. 21, Tiki’s Grill & Bar welcomed “Project Runway’s” Tim Gunn as a guest. Speculation is that he was in town to check on the progress of Hawaii designer Kini Zamora prior to New York Fashion Week, which began today.

So, what can we deduce in light of a number of Tim Gunn sightings around town? I’m sorry, but a person who dresses like Tim Gunn isn’t likely to remain incognito long when he pops up in Waikiki. And I really don’t think he’s here for the beach.

Gunn, of course, is the mentor to the competing designers in Lifetime television’s “Project Runway.” And one of our own, designer Kini Zamora, is still in the game.

Those familiar with the series know up to five finalists are sent home to create Fashion Week-worthy collections, and Gunn typically heads out for hometown visits to make sure the designers are on track. This takes place a few weeks before they are due back in New York City for Fashion Week and the show’s finale.

There are usually three finalists, with one or two more designers thrown into the mix to act as decoys to keep the suspense factor high.

The New York shows started today and the “Project Runway” show is slated to take place tomorrow at 4 a.m. Hawaii time (10 a.m. EST). I managed to get a couple of people into the show in my place and they promised to send photos.

With many media outlets covering the event, we’ll see every collection, though we won’t know the placements of the designers until the show’s finale. I really wish they would time the episodes to coincide with the fashion shows in real time, like they did in the very first season. Otherwise, the finale becomes a bit anticlimactic.

Meanwhile, keep up with official Mercedes Benz Fashion Week happenings at mbfashionweek.com

———
Nadine Kam is Style Editor and staff restaurant critic at the Honolulu Star-Advertiser; her coverage in print on Wednesdays and Thursdays. Contact her via email at nkam@staradvertiser.com and follow her on Twitter, Instagram and Rebel Mouse.

Joyful hearts come together for a cause

Nadine Kam photos
“Law & Order: SVU” star and Joyful Heart Foundation founder Mariska Hargitay was in town for a couple of events marking the foundation’s 10th anniversary. She’s with JHF CEO Maile Zambuto and Jason Zambuto.

Marking the 10th anniversary of the Joyful Heart Foundation she founded, actress Mariska Hargitay was in town for a benefit, as well as a picnic dinner event honoring foundation benefactors.

Hargitay, who portrays New York City detective Olivia Benson on “Law & Order: Special Victims Unit,” was inspired to start the foundation while vacationing in Kailua-Kona. She had always been moved by viewers response to the compassionate character she plays on television, which isn’t far from her own heart. The aim of Joyful Heart is to help heal, educate and empower survivors of sexual assault, domestic violence and child abuse.

She is such a genuine person. Usually, I find the people behind such organizations to be glib and business-like because of the nature of fundraising, but she is such a believer in her cause and full of gratitude that people are willing to come together to help, that this is the second time I’ve seen her tear up talking about it.

I was able to attend the “resort chic” picnic event at a private home in Nuuanu, catered by Town restaurant. In honor of event underwriter Tori Richard, Ltd., guests were invited to show their support by donning Tori Richard attire, vintage or new.

During a resort chic-themed picnic dinner sponsored by Tori Richard Honolulu in honor of Joyful Heart benefactors, guests—including Jeanie Schmaltz, left, and Nalani Holliday—were invited to wear vintage or new Tori Richard garments.

I was invited to Tori Richard headquarters to try on some vintage dresses, excited by the possibility of seeing this secret trove. Even so, I thought it would be a long shot finding something to wear because, No. 1, I am short, and No. 2, 1960s and ’70s styles are very slim so a combination of long length and narrow widths often don’t work with a post-millenial body. It didn’t matter because I have my own vintage and new-ish Tori.

The first one-shoulder dress I tried on was snug but with a green print suited to my coloration. I also tried on a mod purple-and-white mini that fit a little better in the middle, but my fitter seemed to like the first dress better, so I was sold.

Also dressed in Tori Richard, at a private home overlooking Nuuanu Stream, were, from left, Stephanie Johnson, Schmaltz, Sherry Harper Wong and Andrea McTamaney.

As I got dressed that night, I thought this is what it must feel like to be a movie star getting ready for a red-carpet event, when you’re not in your own clothes and feel that little bit of self-consciousness. To me, behind the smiles, the stars always seem to exude a bit of uncertainty and discomfort on the red carpet.

Well, half the time I get invited to events, I’m not quite sure what they entail. I just get an outline, and this picnic really turned out to be a picnic with a mixture of low tables and lawn mats. Naturally, I have the sort of friends who want to try something different so we ended up sitting on the lawn, and if I knew that ahead of time I probably would have been more comfortable getting up and down off the ground in my own vintage Tori.

Even though the dress I wore had a casual look, women of past decades exhibited more decorum, in part, because of the clothes they wore. They were constricting, nipping in the waist—with the help of girdles—and sort of putting a lot of emphasis on the bust—something I don’t invite. The dress imposed good posture. These days, mass clothing allows us to be a little more lazy and slouchy. It’s a different story with certain luxury brands and fits, that continue to demand decorum. It is one thing to understand this theoretically, and another to feel the difference.

Guests had the option of sitting at poolside tables, low lawn tables or picnic mats adorned by pillows with cases sewn from Tori Richard fabric. We picked up fresh fruit, salads, entree items and desserts at various tables and stations around the lawn and poolside.

Toward the end of the evening, guests were invited to make their own s’mores with assorted chocolate, chocolate-dipped bacon or panna cotta.

Jason Zambuto photo
From left, Brittany Atiburcio, Midweek’s Yu Shing Ting and I in Tori Richard.

Brittany J. Atiburcio photo
The aftermath: Yu Shing and I were among the last to leave. We were so comfortable on our picnic mat with Tori Richard pillows.

'Project Runway' recap: Kini Zamora cheated out of win, again

Lifetime photos
Kini Zamora works on an alternative wedding dress that he believes might give him his first win.

"Project Runway" season 13
Episode 6: Rock the Wedding

This week, the designers meet at Webster Hall, a fabulous concert venue dressed up for a Goth wedding. They are greeted by Tim Gunn with burlesque performer Dita Von Teese on his arm. She famously married shock rocker Marilyn Manson in Goth style in a dramatic and memorable Vivienne Westwood gown.

With Gunn noting today’s anything-goes weddings, the designers are challenged to create an alternative wedding ensemble and reception dress for a non-traditional wedding.

Because of the scope of the project they are assigned into teams and Hawaii designer Kini Zamora is paired with Sean Kelly. Kini expresses the fear that he would go home if they were to become the bottom two because Sean has immunity. They come up with the idea of creating feminine/masculine wedding ensembles for a business woman who can’t get out of her suit.

Once again, Kini works quickly and finishes his coat dress with dramatic side flounce, while Sean is still working on one pair of tuxedo pants. Kini keeps asking him if he’s done yet, and during on-camera interviews expresses frustration because he says it’s just a pair of pants, which he finds easy to make.

He decides to start making a top because Sean has immunity and Kini notes, he could send a topless model on the runway without being thrown off the show.

Mentor Tim Gunn with guest judge Dita Von Teese.

During judging, only Kini and Sean win praise. Designer Zac Posen calls their creations “the best of the best” on the runway and calls them the dream team.

In studying the garments closeup, Dita says of their work, “This is what it means to be a designer,” and that she would wear both ensembles.

Show co-host and judge Heidi Klum calls Kini’s work impeccable, and the judges ask, if they were to be the winning team, which designer should have the win. Sean says Kini should win because he’s been on the top so often and deserves a win, but he doesn’t tell the judges that Kini made the flowing white top that the judges love so much.

They love it so much that it is the item that gives Sean the win.

In another camera interview, Kini says that it should have been his win and that he was robbed. I agree and think he was way too nice by not taking credit for the blouse when he had the chance. In this biz you have to speak up because there will always be those shameless people who will have no problem taking credit for your work. It’s happened to people I know, and even happened to me.

Sean is happy about his second win, but while he gloats over it, he still doesn’t give Kini the credit for the top. Please, a pair of pants—no matter how nice—would not have scored him a win. Shame, shame.

Kini Zamora created this dress in five hours, which the other designers deem “insane.”

The back of Kini Zamora’s design, with his teammate Sean Kelly’s model in the background, wearing the top Kini also created.

Char Glover was paired with Sandhya Garg and went home for her sloppy work.

Big Isle businesses band together for Puna relief T-shirt

Courtesy photo
Aloha Grown store manager Tyler Owens with the “Aloha Puna” fundraiser shirt.

Creative Arts Hawaii, Aloha Grown and the Parker Ranch Store have teamed up to create an exclusive limited-edition “Aloha  Puna” fundraiser shirt to assist the Puna community hit by tropical storm Iselle.

The shirts are $20 each, and all proceeds from sales will go to the Hawaii Island United Way (HIUW) for recovery efforts in Puna.

The shirts shirts are available at the Aloha Grown store at 224 Kamehameha Ave., in downtown Hilo, Creative Arts Hawaii at 500 Kalanianaole Ave., in Keaukaha, Hilo, and the Parker Ranch Center store in Waimea.

To purchase online, visit www.alohagrown.com or www.parkerranchstore.com.

'Vampire Facelift' secret to eternal youth

 Nadine Kam photos
Nurse Greta Torok draws blood from Martha Keith during a demonstration of the Vampire Facelift procedure at Honolulu MedSpa.

From the birth of 19th-century vampire fiction through today, the specter of the blood-drinking undead has captivated mere mortals. In earlier times, vampires were creatures to fear. As portrayed in contemporary media — in everything from the “Twilight” book and film franchise to cable TV series — they are beings to admire for their eternal youth and beauty.

Now physicians offering skin and beauty treatments have taken inspiration from the vampire myth to come up with a novel way for men and women to maintain their youthful countenance. While the old stories speak of drinking blood as the vampire’s sustaining factor, Alabama emergency room physician Charles Runels devised a way to incorporate an individual’s own blood-derived growth factors to rejuvenate face and skin. His trademarked procedure is being used in medical spas throughout the world, including here at Honolulu MedSpa in Liliha, which performs Vampire Facelifts and Vampire Facials.


Non-flash video link

The MedSpa’s founder and medical director Choon Kia Yeo learned of the treatment last year after Kim Kardashian had a semblance of the procedure done for the cameras on an episode of “Kim and Kourtney Take Miami.” The reality-TV star released dramatic photos of blood smeared across her face, which had nothing to do with the reality of the procedure. But since then, it’s become a popular procedure in Hollywood.

There is already precedence for use of micro-­needling and fillers to rejuvenate the skin and give faces more youthful contours. The only thing new is that instead of a commercial product or filler, with the Vampire Facial and Facelift, the substance used is a patient’s own blood, containing his or her own antibodies, enzymes, lipids, stem cells and human growth factors which Yeo calls “fertilizer for the skin.”

The blood is put into a centrifuge to separate its components and the yellowish blood plasma is used for the Vampire treatments.

To start, a registered nurse draws 10 cubic centimeters of blood, enough to fill a test tube. The blood is placed in a centrifuge to separate platelets from red blood cells to yield five cubic centimeters of PRP, or platelet-rich blood plasma — a yellowish viscous liquid — to be used in facial or facelift procedures.

The plasma is injected into the skin through a micro-­needling process for the Vampire Facial, devised to improve the skin’s appearance, or combined with a filler product such as Juvéderm for the facelift procedure, which resculpts the face.

For the 45-minute facial, which costs $650 at Hono­lulu MedSpa, the micro-­needling employs the counterintuitive knowledge that injuring the skin with tiny perforations speeds improvement as the body rushes to repair the injury by producing collagen and elastin.

Emiko has the less invasive Vampire Facial, which involves use of a micropen to deliver the blood plasma serum through a series of micro needle perforations. After applying numbing cream, she described the sensation as being “prickly” but not painful.


Non-flash video link

The blood plasma is spread over the skin, and a micropen containing 11 tiny needles is used to deliver the nutrient-rich plasma into the skin. Topical anesthesia is used to numb the skin to what patients describe as a “prickling sensation.”

The facelift, at $1,500, includes one syringe of a Juvéderm filler. The results are said to last up to 12 months, and up to two years for Juvederm Voluma XC, which is offered as an upgrade.

During the facelift, a patient’s plasma is mixed with Juvederm and injected with a blunt-tip cannula in areas of the face that need volume to re-create the taut fullness of youth. The filler provides the scaffolding that elevates skin, while the PRP is said to help stimulate tissue growth, although evidence of PRP’s effects have been anecdotal.
—————
Honolulu MedSpa is at 1650 Liliha Street, Suite 102. Call (808) 528-0888.