OniCon: Atelier-Pierrot brings Harajuku to Honolulu

Nadine Kam photos
Atelier Pierrot designer and CEO Yuko Ashizawa is in white at center, with her models at OniCon Hawaii.

OniCon, an annual three-day anime convention born in Galveston, Texas, made its way to the Hawai'i Convention Center over the weekend, giving cosplayers one more reason to dress up. (The name of the convention comes from the Japanese word for "demon/ogre" so there was a lot of ashy looking blue and green skin in the crowd.

The highlight for me was the Atelier-Pierrot fashion show that took place Nov. 3, showcasing the Japan brand's Gothic Lolita style.

CEO and designer Yuko Ashizawa was in town to show the designs, including signature corset skirts, dresses and jumpers in rich-colored taffeta, plush velvets and sturdy jacquards. Attendees could shop the collection in a boutique area, were pieces ranged from about $130 for a corset belt in black fabric, to about $300.

Atelier Pierrot has several stores, notably in LaForet Harajuku, Shinsaibashi Osaka, which also carry such related labels as Fairy wish, Chantilly, Juliette et Justine, Mary Magdalene, Victorian Maiden, Alice garden, Snob, Miho Matsuda, AN-TEN-NA and Doris.

After the show, fans could meet the designer for a tea party in the Maid Cafe. It would be great to have a permanent cafe allowing cosplayers to bring a little bit of Harajuku to Hawaii every day.

Visit http://www.facebook.com/atelierpierrot


Non-flash video

Yuko Ashizawa was introduced after the show.

Models in Atelier Pierrot's white and black bustle corset dresses and blouses.

Men can find something to wear too.

 Marlie, left, and Amberlina Machado wear their own creations.

Nicole Miyasato, left, with Nikki Ames.

Nao-chan.

From left, Sola Nagaoki, Grace Francisco and Eila Phillip.

From left, Misha Woodward, Abby Dela Vega and Kari Noe.

A balancing act.

Governor's Fashion Awards honors Hawaii talent

Nadine Kam photos
David “Pua” Rochlen of Surf Line Hawaii/Jams World was the winner of the Lifetime Achievement Award at the reinstated Governors Fashion Awards ceremony that took place Oct. 30 at The MODERN Honolulu. Longtime fashion veteran Dale Hope, in a vintage 1965 Sandwich Isles tapa-print jacket presented the award with Gov. Neil Abercrombie.

It was one of the best-dressed events of the year as the Hawaii's fashion industry gathered to honor their own during the reinstated Governor's Fashion Awards ceremony that took place Oct. 30 at The MODERN Honolulu, the dazzling finale to the inaugural Hawai'i Fashion Month.

Before announcing the award winners, Gov. Abercrombie, self-conscious about his age, chuckled as he spoke of having known Surf Line Hawaii founder David Rochlen, and Hilo Hattie inspiration Clarissa "Clara" "Hilo Hattie" Haili.

While it's easy for many of us have grown up with a certain amount of entitlement to bellyache about how hard it is to get ahead these days, he reminded the audience that we can look at behemoths like Hilo Hattie and Surf Line/Jams World today and imagine they were fully formed from the beginning, but he said that was not the case, and in reference to Rochlen, said he had a strong belief in the industry and the confidence to make things happen back in the 1960s when no one was listening.

For the governor, it was an eye-opening experience to watch how a few key people in the business and fashion communities could come together to make a big difference in a few years, such as launching Aloha Fridays to boost sales of aloha wear.

From left, Hilo Hattie's Terri Funakoshi, CEO/President Don Kang and Felix Calvo. The company was named Major Retailer of the Year, and Kang also picked up the award for Outstanding Professional of the Year for his part in rescuing the company following Chapter 11 bankruptcy. Otherwise, the company would likely not have survived to see its 50th anniversary this year.

In their remarks, Hawaii Fashion Incubator co-founders Toby Portner and Melissa White, co-chairs of Hawai'i Fashion Month along with Sen. Will Espero, said it is still their aim to see where the needs and goals of the fashion community intersect, and to bring competitors together to work for the common good of the entire industry.

Industry veteran Dale Hope reiterated that point in his tribute to 'Iolani Sportswear, saying how he was afraid to approach company founder Keiji Kawakami for help, but that it was common in the early days of the industry for competitors to help each other out in times of need, when machines broke or if they needed a loan to get by, and he later learned that Keiji felt fortunate for having been helped by Watumull's.

In accepting the Lifetime Achievement Award, David "Pua" Rochlen of Surf Line Hawaii/Jams World said that when he found out about it, he didn't know why he won and thought he was too young to receive it. He humbly acknowledged that he was once told of running the company started by his father, "You did one thing right, you didn't screw it up."

He reminded all that the Hawaii fashion industry is about more than clothing, but offers the opportunity for all of us to connect with a lifestyle, culture, food, and all the things that create a feeling others can't find at home or anywhere else in the world.

He also announced that he is starting a petition to encourage the state to acquire the Nike building in Waikiki to showcase made in Hawaii products to the visitor market year 'round.

Here are the winners of the Governor’s Fashion Awards, announced Wednesday night at The Modern Honolulu at the close of the inaugural Hawai‘i Fashion Month:

>> Major Retailer of the Year: Don Kang, Hilo Hattie
>> Boutique Retailer of the Year: Deborah Mascia, Mu‘umu‘u Heaven
>> Emerging Designer of the Year: Cora Spearman, Coradorables
>> Established Designer of the Year: Rona Bennett and Lan Chung, Fighting Eel
>> Designer, Contemporary: Ari South, Andy South
>> Designer, Aloha: Jamie Makasobe, Ane Bakutis and Hina Kneubuhl, Kealopiko
>> Designer, Couture/Formal: Anne Namba, Anne Namba Designs
>> Designer, Jewelry: Jason Dow, Jason Dow Inc.
>> Photographer: Harold Julian, Harold Julian Photography
>> Wardrobe Stylist: Amos Kotomori, Amos Kotomori Ltd.
>> Beauty Professional: Paul Brown, Paul Brown Salons
>> Outstanding Professional: Don Kang, Hilo Hattie
>> Lifetime Achievement: David “Pua” Rochlen, Jams World

Congratulations to all, the finalists, and all those who put in the work day after day to make Hawaii a more beautiful place to live.

Pua Rochlen with wife Heather and keiki Nacho, David III and Pumehana, surrounded by Surf Line/Jams World 20-year employees. He bought three tables for his loyal 20-year workers.

Carla and Lloyd Kawakami of 'Iolani Sportswear were honored as the company marked its 60th anniversary this year. The family recently lost matriarch Edith Kawakami, but Carla said if she were here, she would remind them that any honors are not about us as the owners, but about the people who make it happen and the people of Honolulu.

From left, Wardrobe Stylist of the Year winner Amos Kotomori, with stylist Jose Santamaria, designer Beverly Horton, and Georja Skinner, chief officer of the Creative Industries Division/DBEDT. In his acceptance speech, Amos asked those in the audience to give the gift of time to mentor the next generation to strengthen the industry.

Contact lens hazzards the real scare of Halloween

Costume contact lenses look like fun to wear and can be the finishing touch for any costume, but the FDA and Florida-based Eye & Wellness Center said the evening's temporary fun could lead to long-term problems.

It is against the law to purchase or sell contact lenses without a prescription from an ophthalmologist or optometrist. While the illegal purchase of colored-contacts occurs year-round, the amount heightens around Halloween when people want to create a unique eye-color for their costume.

The center's Dr. Edward Kondrot, an ophthalmologist and board-certified physician said, "The problem is that people are unaware that contacts that are not prescribed by an eye doctor are likely to cause damaging effects on your eyes.

“Poor quality plastic releases bisphenol-A and phthalates, which are endocrine disruptors and they can interfere with sexual development. These lenses can lead to cuts, sores, corneal abrasions, ulcers and possibly blindness.”

Here are a few health risks that can occur from over-the-counter contacts:

>> Dyes: Unusual colors in the contacts can be toxic to your eyes, causing serious, sometimes irreversible damage.
>> Poor fit: Contact lenses that don’t fit correctly can lead to a lack of moisture in your eyes and cause ulcerations.
>> Lack of sanitation: Over-the-counter lenses are illegal and not regulated by the FDA. Your risk of contracting a bacterial infection increases with poorly manufactured contacts.

Michael Tam RMH Retailer of the Year

Martin & MacArthur photo
Retail Merchants of Hawai'i Retailer of the Year Michael Tam in the Martin & MacArthur workshop.


Here are the winners of the Retail Merchants of Hawaii's Ho’okela Awards, honored Oct. 24 at the 2013 RMH annual conference that took place at the Hilton Hawaiian Village Beach Resort.

Retailer of the Year: Michael Tam, Martin & MacArthur president and CEO

Local-born Tam returned to Hawaii in 2008 with a track record of senior leadership in global companies such as Nordstrom, McDonald’s International, Starbucks, and American Eagle Outfitters.

Tam and chairman Simon McKenzie are responsible for leading the Martin & MacArthur team to achieve sustainable, profitable, and long term growth and making the company more relevant to today’s lifestyles.

During the past five years, Martin & MacArthur doubled the number of craftsmen it employs, now totaling more than 30. It opened nine new stores, including its first stores on the Big Island and Kauai.

Martin & MacArthur represents nearly 200 local Hawaii craftsmen in its stores, making it the single largest supporter of fine craftsmanship in Hawaii. The company is also at the forefront of koa reforestation, working with private land owners on the Big Island and Hawaii Legacy Hardwoods. For every piece of furniture sold, Martin & MacArthur plants a new koa tree in honor of the customer.

Governor’s Award for Exemplary Service to the Retail Industry: Kelly Kauinana, Pearlridge Center marketing director

Retail Business of the Year, State of Hawaii: Tori Richard

Retail Business of the Year, Hawaii Island: Hula Daddy Kona Coffee

Retail Business of the Year—Kauai: Ishihara Market, Ltd.

Retail Business of the Year—Maui: Uptown Service, Inc.

Retail Business of the Year—Oahu: Fisher, Hawaii, Inc.

Retail Employee of the Year: Laura Ross, Hula Daddy Kona Coffee

Resort Business of the Year: Hawaiian Quilt Collection

Neighborhood Retail Business of the Year: Eki Cyclery

Best New Retail Business of the Year: Island Olive Oil Co.

E-Commerce Retail Business of the Year: IDEAL808

Founded in 1901, the Retail Merchants of Hawai'i is a state-wide not-for-profit trade association committed to the growth and development of the retail industry in Hawai'i. According to RMH, the retail industry is the largest single generator of general excise tax revenue and employs almost 25 percent of the workforce in the state.

Google honors Hollywood costumer Edith Head

Google illustration

And we thought geeks were unfashionable ... it's nice to see Google make a nod to the fashion community with its logo tribute to the late eight-time Oscar-winning Hollywood costume designer Edith Head, whose birthday is today.

The designer, born in 1897, had no art, design or costume design experience when she was hired as a costume sketch artist at Paramount Pictures in 1924, but created her first costumes for "The Wanderer" in 1925 and by the 1930s established herself as one of Hollywood's leading costume designers, dressing stars such as Mae West, Dorothy Lamour, Marlene Dietrich, Elizabeth Taylor, Sophia Loren and George's mother Rosemary Clooney.

She was working on 1940s-style costumes for the Steve Martin and Carl Reiner comedy "Dead Men Don't Wear Plaid," starring Steve Martin and Carl Reiner when she died on Oct. 24, 1981, and the film was dedicated to her memory.

Edith Head with her Oscars.

She dressed Cary Grant and Grace Kelly in "To Catch A Thief."

'Project Runway All-Stars': Ari out

Lifetime photo
Ari South's punk challenge design.

When it comes to state pride, Hawaii has a strong reputation for supporting its own in the national arena, so many were looking forward to seeing Ari South compete on “Project Runway All-Stars” Season 3, which began airing last night.

Unfortunately, the euphoria was short-lived as Ari was the first to exit the show, in the episode, “Punked,” an ode to the punk trend, fueled in part by Spring 2013’s Met Costume Institute exhibition, “Punk: Chaos to Couture.”

Studying the exhibition would have been helpful to many of the designers, who didn’t seem to have a feel for the punk ethos. Only Seth Aaron Henderson and Jeffrey Sebelia seem to have grown up with the punk mindset, and, though Seth Aaron’s ensemble was fabulous, it wasn’t really punk in that it was way too polished. Similarly, judges’ “criticism” for Ari was, her design was “too well tailored.”

Punk from the Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute's “Punk: Chaos to Couture” Spring 2013 exhibition.

Designer interpretations of punk from the Met exhibition.

The Met show noted how American punk fashion was simply anti-fashion T-shirts, denim and leather jackets, while the British style we came to associate with the punk scene grew out of the mainstreamed designer aesthetic of Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren.

The designers were sent to a makeshift workroom in the basement of the MOOD fabric store with the idea of creating a crude workspace for work that was initially rough, torn and battered. I think only Jeffrey got the challenge, in that he created a messy tangle of a skirt, with an imperfect fitted black jacket with leopard collar that a true punk might have come up with by Frankensteining thrift-shop finds.

In the end, Elena Slivnyak (Season 10), won her first challenge after following her model’s advice to wear her jacket backward. That gave it a straitjacket effect the judges, including Blondie’s Debbie Harry, liked, though Elena’s colorful jacket still registered more as New Wave to me.

 Jeffrey Sebelia's design came closest to the makeshift, DIY spirit of punk.

After the episode aired, Ari posted to her Facebook page: “Thank you, to all my fans and family for your ENDLeSS love and support ... And for the result of tonights episode: Too well tailored, too well designed, and too classy might get you eliminated, but they also get you into Neiman Marcus. #stillwinning #honored #grateful @projectrunway thank you for the opportunity, it was a great experience. #itiswhatitis blessings are coming and I am ready. There is always perfection in the plan. Live and love to no end.”

Ari remains a fan favorite at the Lifetime site, with the most Facebook likes of all the designers. You can still show your support with a “like” at http://www.mylifetime.com/shows/project-runway-all-stars/season-3/designers

You can also show your support by shopping the designer’s latest collection at Neiman Marcus.

Elena's design more New Wave than punk, but the winner nevertheless, with the approval of Blondie's Debbie Harry, herself borderline punk/New Wave.

It will be really interesting if the competition comes down between Jeffrey and Seth Aaron Henderson, who created this ensemble. I was a fan of both "Project Runway" winners during their respective seasons, though Seth Aaron may have an edge because Jeffrey's been working in children's design, and as he said, hasn't been hands-on sewing for a long time. Other designers mentioned during the episode that he was struggling.

Ari South to debut on 'Project Runway All-Stars'

Lifetime photo

Don't forget to tune into "Project Runway All-Stars" tonight, when local designer Ari South makes her national debut on the Lifetime fashion design competition.

You can read all about it in my story that appeared in the paper on Oct. 17: http://www.honolulupulse.com/2013/10/ari-south-project-runway/