Showing posts with label andy south. Show all posts
Showing posts with label andy south. Show all posts

Wednesday, December 30, 2015

Ari South speaks about style and transformation

Nadine Kam photos
Ari South spoke about her long journey to become authentic during Kit and Ace’s inagural speaker series talk.

BY NADINE KAM

Kit and Ace launched the first of its planned Speaker Series Dec. 17, featuring designer Ari South.
The event took place in the Ala Moana Center boutique, on the Macy’s end of the mall.

The intimate event brought together a guest list of people who touched South’s life in some way, ranging from school teachers, to fellow designers to the journalists such as moi who have covered her journey, ranging from the professional to the very personal. What for some would have been a private transformation became very public due to her high-profile design life.

She spoke with a sense of gratitude and humility as she gave her interpretation of “personal style,” which she said goes beyond fashion to define who you are and what you stand for.

If we haven’t seen her name mentioned much over the past year, she said it was because she needed time to focus on herself, away from the spotlight, reiterating the whirlwind that started with her casting on “Project Runway” as Andy South.

“It was the most challenging thing I’ve done in life. It was the hardest and most beautiful thing I’ve ever done and it pushed me to grow in ways I never could do in Hawaii. It took me from a pond and pushed me into an ocean.”

Ari was surrounded by a small, self-curated group of people who have supported and illuminated her journey.

At that time, Andy had been working for someone else and might have been content to do that for a while, but with “Project Runway,” “It was the first time I experienced stars lining up, and it was too perfect to deny. When things are too perfect that means they’re just right.”

She spoke of having grown up taught to think analytically, and having to let go of that to have the life she wanted.

“I learned to surrender to gut instinct and intuition.

“We should never be afraid of letting go of what were taught, but people are so afraid to consider other opinions as possibly being right.

“It’s not a matter of giving up your beliefs, but we really don’t know what we believe in until we can let go of old belief systems.”

The talk comes at a time when Ari, who made the transition from male to female, is addressing duality with the rebranding of her Andy South line as a men’s line, and the startup of her Ari South line for women.

Guests were welcome to help themselves to cocktail shrimp as big as lobster tails, from Bread + Butter.

I have written about South many times over the years, but for the first time heard the story about the little boy who was born to be a maker of things and felt most at home with a box of craft items.

“I loved classed projects. I watched HGTV. I learned to knit and crochet. I was always the quiet kid who did my own thing.”

Even so, the “little kid from Waianae” knew nothing of the fashion world. “I didn’t know it existed. I only knew you went to the store to buy clothes.”

At some point, he knew he was a girl, internally. “It was something that never caused depression, but I grew up with the understanding it wasn’t a good thing. I didn’t grow up with anyone transgender.
I didn’t know anyone transgender. I didn’t know the difference between transvestites. I didn’t think anyone transgender was successful.

Eagle-eyed Mahealani Richardson had a question about that ring Ari is wearing on a particular finger. It's symbolic of her comfort in living life without a partner, but the nurturing soul in her dreams of becoming a mother.

“It never brought me down. It was not something that caused me to feel sadness, but it was the missing piece. To have all this and not be in the right body, I don’t want it at all.”

All this was on Andy’s mind as he progressed through his season on “Project Runway,” and those who watched saw his muse as a warrior woman, a strong and open-minded citizen of the world.

“As I was designing, I realized I wasn’t imagining someone else. I was imagining myself,” she said. “Andy, defending himself with a mohawk, was a representation of everything we’re afraid of.”

Later, finding her style as a woman came with “extremely heavy” makeup. “I learned to paint from a drag queen. I didn’t want to look masculine at all.”

That eased up as she became more comfortable in her body.

“When I think about the idea of personal style, I look at my life starting as a chubby kid. I feel like I’ve lived multiple lifestyles. Personal style never changes, it just evolves. I’ve evolved and developed into who I was the whole while.

“So, when you’re talking about personal style, it’s not about, ‘I like to wear this,’ but who you are right now.”
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Nadine Kam is Style Editor and staff restaurant critic at the Honolulu Star-Advertiser; her coverage is in print on Wednesdays and Thursdays. Contact her via email at nkam@staradvertiser.com and follow her on Twitter, Instagram and Rebel Mouse.

Thursday, December 11, 2014

Fishcake Gallery turned runway for Fashion@hfxishcake

Travis K. Okimoto photo
Before their final walk down the runway, models for Kaypee Soh’s graphic print designs created a tableau in a space in the back of Fishcake Gallery usually reserved for meetings and presentations.

Fishcake’s retail floor became the runway for seven designers and brands on Nov. 30, during Fashion@hfxishcake, presented by the gallery in collaboration with the Hawaii Fashion Exchange.

Featured were designs by Andy South’s Ari South, M33Ms, Rumi Murakami, Language of the Birds, Kaypee Soh, Playback, and Gillia.

I was about five minutes too late to catch the first show, with the colorful prints of Kaypee Soh. Luckily, photographer Travis Okimoto was able to share one of his photos with me to give you an idea of the designer’s collection.

There was about a 15-minute wait in between shows, allowing guests to browse and shop the various collections.

I did a lot of shopping, but always ventured back after the shows after seeing how other pieces moved and fit on the body. I dropped so much $$$ that night, and saw a lot of other people shopping, proving that fashion shows work!

Nadine Kam photo
Carrie Shuler models one of Gillia’s soft floral dresses during Fashion@hfxishcake.

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Wednesday, December 3, 2014

HCC Fashion Technology alumni come 'Full Circle'

Nadine Kam photos
Honolulu Community College Fashion Technology instructor Joy Nagaue, center, shares student and alumnus euphoria following the “Full Circle” fundraiser that took place Nov. 19 at Stage Restaurant.

Stage Restaurant at the Honolulu Design Center partnered with Honolulu Community College to host a fundraiser celebrating the success of former students, allowing them and the community to give back to the school.

“Full-Circle: A Dining and Fashion Experience” took place Nov. 19 at the restaurant, with dinner followed by a fashion show by current and former students, highlighted by another three presentations by HCC Fashion Technology program alumni Andy South’s Ari South, Manuheali’i's Danene Lum, and KINI and DINKO’s Kini Zamora.

Ari and Kini gained renown through their national appearances on “Project Runway’s” Season 8 and 13, respectively.

Brent Anbe smartly purchased, as an archival piece, one of the audition dresses that helped designer Kini Zamora land a spot on “Project Runway.”


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The event opened with a silent auction of items, many of them apparel or jewelry items made by current or former students. Ari offered an emerald-colored gown that ended up being won by Michele Sorensen, wife of HDC owner Thomas Sorensen, and casting director Brent Anbe won Kini’s strapless denim mini dress, one of four denim pieces that he brought to the “Project Runway” audition to win his spot on the TV design competition.

Brent smartly saw it as a collectible item. I wanted it too, but was looking at it as a wearable piece, and thought, oh that size 2 waist! Sadly, it’s been a couple years since I’ve been a size 2. No wonder I don’t shop as much these days!


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What was most surprising is that Zamora, with design partner Dean Dinko Satta, was able to come up with a show completely different from his Hawai’i Fashion Month showcase a little more than a week earlier!

This show included a more complete men’s collection, some show-stopping couture pieces (a few from past collections), and a flowing blouse modeled by Kelsey Campbell, that looked similar to one that Zamora created on “Project Runway,” that was mistakenly credited to competitor/teammate Sean Kelly. Consider this a public correction.

And for her segment, Ari South surprised audience members by appearing as a model in one of her own dramatic designs in white, marked by a graphic chevron design of cleverly placed sheer panels.


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Net proceeds from the event will support the Fashion Technology Program and the Fashion Technology Scholarship fund at Honolulu Community College to benefit students.

The shows impressed guests so much that many wrote checks to the program on the spot, and instructors were hoping to have enough to pay for some new sewing machines and repairs for several that are broken.

Anyone else in the community who wishes to make a contribution to the school can visit www.uhfoundation.org for more information.










Wednesday, November 21, 2012

Bishop Museum celebrates Shaheen legacy

Nadine Kam photos
Among the vintage Shaheen garments offered up during the silent auction at "An Evening of HI Fashion" Nov. 17 at Bishop Museum, were, from left, a metallic dress, a ruffled dress, a pake mu'u, an empire waist mu'u, and Asian motif pant suit.

The Bishop Museum hosted an evening of fashion and entertainment during "An Evening of HI Fashion," Nov. 17, celebrating the exhibition "HI Fashion: The Legacy of Alfred Shaheen," which opened Nov. 10 and continues through Feb. 4, 2013.

In giving the introduction to the event, the museum's CEO Blair Collis said that although the museum is not known for fashion exhibitions or fashion shows, fashion is another way people manifest their cultural identity.

Guests were invited to "dress vintage," and that they did, with many a Shaheen garment in the audience or prints paying tribute to the master.


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Shaheen's granddaughter Brianna Rose walked the runway in one of his bombshell dresses.

Beverly Noa, hired to model exclusively for Shaheen in the 1950s, attended the event, performing a hula to "Kawohikukapulani," before the start of the fashion shows.

In connecting past and present, the show opened with the Alfred Shaheen Collection by Reyn Spooner, contemporary designs by menswear company Reyn Spooner, whose use of Shaheen prints began in the 1960s.

A collection of vintage aloha shirts and dresses loaned by Shaheen's daughter, Camille Shaheen-Tunberg, was displayed next, along with a handful of vintage Shaheen garments that were up for silent auction that evening, starting as low as $75. It's too bad I was yammering away with friends, so missed out on some steals! Closing the show was a collection of beautiful, fluid Shaheen-inspired print garments by Andy South.

I wasn't in town for the exhibition opening, but made up for lost time by checking out the gallery, where an interactive screen allows you to "like" some of your favorite designs. There are so many to choose from, depending on whether you're a fan of the 1950s bombshell or '60s mods or '70s disco groove.

The quantity and diversity of designs would easily fill The Metropolitan Museum's Costume Institute. Maybe someday its Hawaii-born curator-in-charge Harold Koda would see fit to honor this local legend whose designs once circled the globe.

Accompanying each auctioned outfit were matching accessories created by a museum staffer from period materials, such as the carved orange coral hair ornament and earrings paired with the pant suit.
Keali'i McClellan with Ilana Davis, wearing a vintage Alfred Shaheen bombshell dress that she bought 12 years ago.
Joy of Sake's Jan Nagano in her vintage Shaheen.
Andy South also presented a fashion show and wears one of her designs. She's with Margaret Murchie, a former Shaheen model.
Kris Tanahara in a vintage mu'u, with Floyd Takeuchi in an Alfred Shaheen Collection by Reyn Spooner shirt, which blends vintage Shaheen prints and contemporary styling.
The collaboration between Shaheen and Reyn Spooner began in the 1960s. Inside the exhibition gift shop, museum-goers can shop the collection.
Also in the gift shop are household wares such as pot holders and table runners utilizing reproductions of Shaheen textiles, as well as yardages, above and below, allowing those who sew the opportunity to create their own vintage-inspired looks.

Wednesday, September 19, 2012

Now open: Andy South Atelier

Nadine Kam photos
Andy South Atelier is now open at 12 S. King St. This is a peek into the showroom, which looks like a New York loft. The building's second story houses her corporate headquarters, workspace and showroom.

Andy South hosted "An Afternoon of Good Taste" Sept. 15, inviting industry professionals for a first look at Andy South Atelier, which encompasses the second-story at 12 S. King St., and is now the home of her corporate headquarters, workspace and showroom.

Guests were invited to mingle in the ground-floor courtyard for Andy South-inspired cocktails by St. Germain’s Maria Burke, as well as light fare by Brassiere Du Vin's executive chef Marco Elder, before a blessing. Guests then climbed the stairs and took off their shoes before entering the Atelier's grand showroom. It is so stunning! I know I wanted to move in immediately. The light pouring through the loft windows is too beautiful to resist. If I worked here, I would never feel like leaving, which works out well for the tireless Andy, who's been known to pull all-nighters in transforming concepts into reality.

Andy South and bestie Jill Misawa in the heart of the Atelier.

A workspace in a side wing of the space reminded me of the workroom of "Project Runway," where was introduced to Andy South two years ago. She could have easily taken her business to China, but created the workspace to make the bigger commitment of keeping her line "made in Hawaii."

In addition to the ready-to-wear being showcased at the Atelier, Andy’s plans include a small collection of ready-to-wear bridal gowns, as well as offering Hawaii and destination brides the opportunity to have a gown designed especially for them. A flagship retail space is also in the works.

For now, visits to Andy South Atelier are by appointment only. Call (808) 744-1167 or visit info@AndySout.com. Or shop at shop.AndySouth.com.

Congratulations Andy!

Serenity at the entryway.

The workspace is bright and airy.

The patterns.

This ensemble is so chic in balancing the simplicity of a plain cotton blouse and the theatricality of a floor-length trumpet skirt.

A fiery creation.

From left, Jena Kissinger, Amanda Morris and Hifi's Toby Portner.

Thursday, February 23, 2012

DVF boutique hosts warm-up to 'Sacs'

Nadine Kam photos
From left, members of the Junior League of Honolulu Monica Jennings, Lizette Chan-Zahn and Jennifer Dotson show copies of Diane Von Furstenberg's book, "Diane: A Signature Life."

The DVF boutique at Ala Moana Center welcomed members of the Junior League of Honolulu for a private party Feb. 17 in advance of JLH's "Sacs in the City" fundraiser coming up on Girl's Day, March 3.

Women browsed the colorful display of Spring 2012 designs to find something to wear to the event to show their support for the designer who has shown an interest in Hawaii's arts and culture scene. During her visit here last fall, she contributed $10,000 to EuroCinema Hawaii.

Diane Von Furstenberg is the featured designer for the luncheon fashion show highlighted by a silent auction of luxury handbags and other merchandise, which raises funds for the organization's community work.

On the runway at the Sheraton Waikiki will be 24 designs from the DVF Spring/Summer 2012 New York runway.

Tickets for the event, taking place 10 a.m. to 1:30 p.m., are $95. Visit www.juniorleagueofhonolulu.org for more information.

DVF shop Corinne Kesteloot shows one of DVF's isle-ready maxi dresses.

Jojo Watumull tried on DVF's tangerine-colored sequin dress.

BFFs Jill Misawa and designer Andy South, who apparently has been working on an accessories collection. I recognized his south-directional logo right away. Now that's good branding!

Friday, September 16, 2011

Fall trends at FNO

Nadine Kam photos
Claudia Vaughan on the runway during the Neiman Marcus fashion presentation on Fashion's Night Out, Sept. 8.

Three-and-a-half hours seems like a long time, except when it's Fashion's Night Out and it becomes a challenge to visit every store offering an event at the exact same time!

When it comes to watching fashion shows, it doesn't leave much time at all, which is why I only managed to stop by Banana Republic to check out its "Mad Men" collection, Old Navy, and Neiman Marcus, from which I never escaped after visiting Andy South to congratulate him on his inaugural collection, taking in a fashion show, checking in with menswear designers Amos Kotomori and Mimi Fong, and finally, ending up having dinner at Mariposa with some friends.

It's great that Andy is sharing floor space—and price points!—with some of my favorite designers, Alexander Wang, Helmut Lang and 3.1 Phillip Lim, as well as Elizabeth & James, Alice+Olivia, Diane Von Furstenberg, See by Chloe and Marc by Marc Jacobs. It's almost unheard of for a new designer to get on the floor of NM with a first collection, but that's how much the local buyers believe in him. Go Andy!

Otherwise, to get shoppers in the mood for fall, the NM fashion show highlighted some key trends for fall, including ladylike looks from apparel to accessories, a touch of shine, the color bordeaux, furs, colorblocking, and more. A video follows.

Designer Andy South with his newly arrived Fall-Winter 2011 collection at Neiman Marcus.

Just as at NYFW, it's always interesting to check out the footwear in the front row.


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Honolulu Community College Fashion Technology instructor Joy Nagaue showed up to support both Andy and Amos Kotomori, who showed a few samples of his new , one-year anniversary limited edition vintage rayon collection. The designer will also be sharing his collection noon to 4 p.m. Sept. 17, and 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sept. 23 in NM's third-floor menswear department.

Joy wore a necklace of colorful zipper pulls.

Among those who showed up to support Andy were, from left, Johnathan Walk, Ryan Nakagawa, Nalani Ravelo, Ryan Camacho, Harold Julian, David Crans and Krista Alvarez.

Crystal Pancipanci photographs her daughter Hailey with Andy.

Wednesday, August 10, 2011

Andy's fashion journey at First Friday

Nadine Kam photos
Who's that future design star? At least he grew out of rainbow prints and frilly cap sleeves; I never did!

Pacific Gateway Center welcomed designer Andy South at one of the first of its monthly First Friday festivities, celebrating "Andy South's Fashion Journey," from his humble childhood to "Project Runway" success.

The event took place Aug. 5 at the center-run Lemon Grass Cafe at 83 N. King St., where Andy's school, audition and current designs were displayed on manikins alongside videos of his work.

The choice to focus on Andy was not random. His family was among the thousands assisted by the center since the 1970s. His family arrived in 1975 as Laotian refugees in the aftermath of the Vietnam War. Though born here, the center continues to help South, housing his studio and helping him to find startup capital for his fashion business.

The center's executive director Tin Myaing Thein, Ph.D., said she remembers Andy—who hung out at the center because his mom worked there—as a roly poly child, and no one, not even his mom Nora Sisounthone, predicted fashion in his future. His success is the family's American dream come true.

Designer Andy South with his mom Nora Sisounthone, right, and family friends Grace Cheng, left, and Samaythong Nguyen. His mom, who overcame the adversity of arriving in this country as a refugee, shared her experience that "everything is possible" to encourage each of her children to dream big.

Andy's designs on display along with evocative video.

Stylist Tiare Thompson, left, was there to share the moment with Reise Kochi and Jill Misawa, who helped set up the displays, and fashion photographer extraordinaire Harold Julian, right.
At one point I sauntered over to the kitchen in hope of photographing Andy's mom cooking. She wasn't there but I did discover these Thai-Laotian tapioca mochi dumplings sa ku sai mu, filled with minced peanuts, vegetables and pork. So delicious! Eaten with wraps of cilantro and lettuce and roasted chili pepper.


Saturday, March 5, 2011

Andy South previews Fall 2011 South collection


Nadine Kam photos
Designer Andy South poses with his model after the informal preview of his South by Andy South Fall 2011 ready-to-wear collection at Neiman Marcus.


Andy South offered a preview of his Fall 2011 South by Andy South ready-to-wear collection at Neiman Marcus on March 3, coinciding with the store's Spring "Fashion Rules" event.

There was a fashion show featuring the florals, whites and neutral colors of the season, followed by Andy sharing the stage with NM Honolulu's merchandise manager for contemporary sportswear, Lucy Chelini. It's difficult for any designer, much less one coming out with a first-time produced collection, to get into such a major retail store. It's generally not done, and even moreso in this tight economy. For good reason.

First, retailers don't want to take a risk on unknowns. Luckily, Andy is well-known in this town and the extended "Project Runway" community.

Second, as much as a buyer believes in a designer's talent, production is a whole other story. It's costly and there's a lot that can go wrong between the sample and finished stages, so it says a lot that Andy's got his foot in the door based on the strength of his designs, work ethic, and impression that he wouldn't settle for factory work that doesn't meet his high standards.


Neiman Marcus Honolulu's merchandise manager for contemporary sportswear, Lucy Chelini, welcomed Andy South to the stage to talk about his new collection. Click here to watch the video.

Andy was able to talk about his brand and vision, while teasing attendees with the promise of a couture line to come. One thing I didn't mention in my print interview with Andy is that he also designed his line with men in mind. Men have been inquiring about his clothing for themselves, but rather than stretch himself too thin at this point, he created some pieces to be unisex.

There's a lot of versatility in the collection overall, making it easy to add a couple of pieces to any type of wardrobe. Many pieces are drapey, making them easy to wear, and of course, there are the form-fitting, show-stopper dresses as well, for the risk-taking "South" girl who enjoys making a grand entrance.

From the response after the show, with people swarming the racks to feel and eye the samples up close, it looks like it'll be a hit come fall, when it's in the Honolulu Neiman.

The collection will have it's World Debut on Ala Moana's Centerstage on March 24 during the center's Spring Shop A Le'a event. I don't know what he's planning, but I'm sure it'll be signature Andy, who always aims to surprise. People who were there may recall he made a grand entrance on stilts in opening the Honolulu Community College Fashion Show when helping the Class of 2009.

On a side note, the launch of the Empty Bowl Hawaii 2011 Project also took place at NM that night. Check out my other blog Take A Bite for a visit with the artists and find out more about the big event March 18. No art lover or foodie will want to miss it!

Reise Kochi, who's helping Andy with his collection, posed with Lacy Matsumoto and Tiare Thomas.

Andy with fellow designers Matt Bruening, center, and Richie Miao.

Brie Thalman was among the Andy fans who rushed to the racks to check out his collection samples after the show.

Lacey Lien tries on one of the collection's signature pieces, a leather structured chain vest. Fashion show guests could enter a drawing to win the vest.

Many of Andy's pieces were draped with lightweight chains and silk fringe. Nicole Fox, who showed up after a workout and en route to hula practice, had the right vibe with her own chain-embellished tote.

Fans were happy for the opportunity to be photographed with Andy and his models Kate Schuette and Justine Godfrey.