Andy South previews Fall 2011 South collection

Nadine Kam photos
Designer Andy South poses with his model after the informal preview of his South by Andy South Fall 2011 ready-to-wear collection at Neiman Marcus.


Andy South offered a preview of his Fall 2011 South by Andy South ready-to-wear collection at Neiman Marcus on March 3, coinciding with the store's Spring "Fashion Rules" event.

There was a fashion show featuring the florals, whites and neutral colors of the season, followed by Andy sharing the stage with NM Honolulu's merchandise manager for contemporary sportswear, Lucy Chelini. It's difficult for any designer, much less one coming out with a first-time produced collection, to get into such a major retail store. It's generally not done, and even moreso in this tight economy. For good reason.

First, retailers don't want to take a risk on unknowns. Luckily, Andy is well-known in this town and the extended "Project Runway" community.

Second, as much as a buyer believes in a designer's talent, production is a whole other story. It's costly and there's a lot that can go wrong between the sample and finished stages, so it says a lot that Andy's got his foot in the door based on the strength of his designs, work ethic, and impression that he wouldn't settle for factory work that doesn't meet his high standards.

Neiman Marcus Honolulu's merchandise manager for contemporary sportswear, Lucy Chelini, welcomed Andy South to the stage to talk about his new collection. Click here to watch the video.

Andy was able to talk about his brand and vision, while teasing attendees with the promise of a couture line to come. One thing I didn't mention in my print interview with Andy is that he also designed his line with men in mind. Men have been inquiring about his clothing for themselves, but rather than stretch himself too thin at this point, he created some pieces to be unisex.

There's a lot of versatility in the collection overall, making it easy to add a couple of pieces to any type of wardrobe. Many pieces are drapey, making them easy to wear, and of course, there are the form-fitting, show-stopper dresses as well, for the risk-taking "South" girl who enjoys making a grand entrance.

From the response after the show, with people swarming the racks to feel and eye the samples up close, it looks like it'll be a hit come fall, when it's in the Honolulu Neiman.

The collection will have it's World Debut on Ala Moana's Centerstage on March 24 during the center's Spring Shop A Le'a event. I don't know what he's planning, but I'm sure it'll be signature Andy, who always aims to surprise. People who were there may recall he made a grand entrance on stilts in opening the Honolulu Community College Fashion Show when helping the Class of 2009.

On a side note, the launch of the Empty Bowl Hawaii 2011 Project also took place at NM that night. Check out my other blog Take A Bite for a visit with the artists and find out more about the big event March 18. No art lover or foodie will want to miss it!

Reise Kochi, who's helping Andy with his collection, posed with Lacy Matsumoto and Tiare Thomas.

Andy with fellow designers Matt Bruening, center, and Richie Miao.

Brie Thalman was among the Andy fans who rushed to the racks to check out his collection samples after the show.

Lacey Lien tries on one of the collection's signature pieces, a leather structured chain vest. Fashion show guests could enter a drawing to win the vest.

Many of Andy's pieces were draped with lightweight chains and silk fringe. Nicole Fox, who showed up after a workout and en route to hula practice, had the right vibe with her own chain-embellished tote.

Fans were happy for the opportunity to be photographed with Andy and his models Kate Schuette and Justine Godfrey.

Miu Miu in the eyes of female filmmakers

Miu Miu photos
Audrey Marnay in Miu Miu in Zoe Cassavetes' "The Powder Room."

The feminine love affair with Miu Miu is explored in "The Miu Miu Womens' Tales," a series of short movies directed by international female filmmakers. The first video, "The Powder Room" by Zoe Cassavetes, is being featured on miumiu.com, where you can also watch backstage footage and interviews with the actors and director.

"The Powder Room" is set in London’s posh Claridges hotel, where Cassavetes uses the romantic codes of the powder room to mirror the beauty and luxury of the Miu Miu brand, as a place where women can, if just for a moment, escape the universe of men.

The video stars Audrey Marnay, with models Caroline de Maigret, Line Gost and Sophie Vlaming also entering the
dream-like setting.

While showcasing Miu Miu clothing and accessories, each film will be as individual as each director’s particular cinematic point of view.

Made in Hawaii a novel idea for Waikiki

Nadine Kam photos
From left, Aloha 'Aina owners Seyon Chan, Kristy Carrina Curnow and Gina Fukeda.


For a long time, "buy Hawaii" was something nice to say, but like "buy American," was a philosophy few stylish people turned into action.

This may be the year Hawaii becomes cool again. With TV series "Hawaii Five-0" and "Off the Map" filming here, films made last year-including the George Clooney vehicle "The Descendants" set to premiere this year, certainly all eyes will be cast our way, and Hawaii designers are ready.

Where made-in-Hawaii has long been cast as a collection of loud, brassy kitsch and craft-yness, in the last couple years, without really trying, young artists have made it cool simply by doing their own thing, without regard to trend or mainstream retail climate.

Last fall, Island Edge opened at Ala Moana Center with the aim of promoting not only established brands, but indie designers. They succeeded in almost filling the store with homegrown product.

On Jan. 14, Aloha Aina boutique opened at Royal Hawaiian Center with the same philosophy of promoting local, filling its racks, shelves and showcases with clothing, accessories and jewelry by several local companies. Among them: Marylea Conrad, Sierra Dew, Indah, machinemachine, Meleana, Mi Cielo, Noelani Designs, Roberta Oaks, Wings Hawaii, and many more.

Hopefully, visitors will be able to distinguish and take home more of what is made in Hawaii, than what is made in China, Taiwan or the Philippines.

Look for the boutique on the second floor of Building C, across from Guess.

The women of Maui's Wings Hawaii are alumni of the University of Hawaii's APDM program. From left, Samantha Howard shows a handmade leather clutch, Becky Dosh with their house fashion magazine "Inspire," and Melody Torres with one of their screen-printed briefs.

Anuhea performed.

Clutches in eye-popping color!

Jewelry trays and other decorative home items are the latest offerings from the ever versatile Marylea Conrad. Below, she's on the far right with, from left, Wayne Kato, Yaling, Shannon Hiramoto of machinemachine and Cheyne Gallarde of Firebird Photography.

Mi Cielo's Kayo Master was there with her son Tristan in the Mr. T shirt she created for him. Her husband wears her Chewbacca shirt, and Kayo was wearing her adult version of her Princess Leia tee, also shown below in its original kiddie size. She was forced to create the adult shirts because she received so many requests when they saw her children's designs.

Keith and Julie Aragaki.

Among the guests were Bruce and Yaling Fisher.

Sunday morning confessional

Nadine Kam photos
Kristian Lei with a glittering Buddha that was a gift for party hosts Eric Chander, left, and Takeo.

Like every reporter, I started in news before gravitating to music because musicians are just cuter than politicians. What I learned was how little control the young musicians, at the time, had over their lives. They would wake up and be told where to go, who to talk to and when, so they never had to worry about logistics and could focus on their craft.

I don’t know if I could live that way because I like structure and knowing what I’m doing from one day to the next. But a lot of times I don’t know what I’m getting myself into either. I get these nebulous calls that end with, “Come  OK?” And, being mostly agreeable, I go, “OK,” without knowing much about said event. For one thing, people who call reporters assume we might be on deadline, so they try to spit out details in 30 seconds.

So when 2Couture designer Takeo called last week, I got the sketchiest outline: Noon. Sunday. Tea at 1024. Kristian Lei. Dress. Wear a hat.

Yesterday morning, I wasn’t sure how to dress or if I really heard instructions to wear a hat. I was looking at my Miss Catwings green animal spot and skull hat. Too much? I had nothing to wear with it, so I just stuck on a headband. Then I was sad when I got there because everyone was wearing a fabulous hat, and there are so few hat-wearing occasions in town that when such an event happens you don’t let it go to waste!

The event had many occasions rolled into one. It was mainly a homecoming for Kristian Lei, who’s been in Hong Kong performing in “The Lion King.”

It was also an introduction of Miss Hawaii USA Angela Byrd and MissTeen Hawaii USA Courtney Coleman, and belated birthday party for Desiree Mitsunaga, and just a way for Takeo and fellow designer Eric Chandler to celebrate the new year with the women who inspire them.

There were informal contests for best dressed, best hat, best shoes and best overall look, and love-life confessions that we all vowed would not leave that room (oh, that rascally Eric!) … Though I don’t know, Pamela Young taped all! You can see her news segment here: http://www.kitv.com/video/26421504/detail.html

Blossom Tyau, left, with Pamela Young, who won the Best Hat competition of the day. Blossom surprised Pamela with some photos out of her past, when she was a Cathay Capers dancer, below.

 

You know it must have been a little out of hand when Pamela Young ends up on floored by Iwalani Tseu's love-life confession.

Miss Hawaii USA Angela Byrd and Miss Hawaii Teen USA Courtney Coleman.

Esther Nakamura lights a candle for birthday girl Desiree Mitsunaga, with Takeo.

Tea at 1024 owner Michele Henry with Angela, being photographed by Kristian Lei.

Picture making behind the scenes

Nadine Kam photo

It's always fun to go behind the scenes of a photo shoot because theret are always those pieces that never get seen, ending up on the proverbial cutting-room floor.

When choosing clothing we always gather a little bit more than we need, just in case a particular ensemble doesn't work out on a model. But in the case of a shoot involving Anya Rozova, I needn't have worried. She looked fantastic in everything. That brings a dilemma of another sort, what to shoot.

These are the final days for picking up the December-January issue of HI Luxury, where you can see what made it onto the pages, but one of the pieces that I really loved that didn't make the final cut was the black dress above, from Neiman Marcus, with Art Deco lines.

It was very angular when she stood, in contrast with the rest of the shoot, which was more Art Nouveau, shot at the home of hair stylist Kensei Takeda. He had dressed his home for the holidays, down to the candles and red and gold flourishes around his whirlpool tub. Anya and I loved the bathroom and the dress, and just put two and two together for the impromptu iPhone shot.

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Meanwhile DISfunkshion magazine is preparing to launch its next issue featuring E! Television's Debbie Matenopolous as their model in a Fairytale/Bohemian-themed pictorial, with a March party to take place at The Edition Waikiki.

As a teaser, they send over a few photos from the session, featuring a mix of clothing from Andy South and Nordstrom, and dozens of accessories. Sometime model Adam Jung was the photographer for the shoot produced by Tyson Joines, with wardrobe by publisher Hugette Montesinos and Kyle Kagamida, with an assist by Allie Lee.  

Photos courtesy DISfunkshion
Debbie Matenopolous in the makeup chair.

Matenopolous in a gold swimsuit from American Apparel.

Photographer Adam Jung, left, contemplates the scenery with videographer Steve Wyman.

Plenty of accessories to choose from.

And shoes.

Japan wears: Fur

Rae Huo photos


Hawaii-based photographer Rae Huo is on the road again and sent back these photos from Japan documented the fur trend there.

"Fur is everywhere," Rae reports and, being a photographer, her favorite pieces are the faux fur animal gloves. "Can you see me holding my camera with them on!" she wrote.

Check out more of her work at her website: www.raehuosworld.com

This has nothing to do with fur, but one day last year Rae came over to my house and took this series of photos of one of my birds enjoying his bath:

Andy South, more TK

Nadine Kam photos
Fans lined up for photos with Andy South at the "Project Runway" finale viewing party Oct. 28 at Honolulu Design Center. Andy's manager Monica Ivey, right, was there to make sure there was order to the madness, though his Honolulu Community College instructors Lillian Zane, Joy Nagaue and Karen Hastings inadvertently cut in early, in excited rush to congratulate him.

A couple hundred people poured into the Honolulu Design Center’s Cupola Theater on Thursday night for Andy South, whose fate on season 8 of “Project Runway” was finally revealed during a public viewing of the finale.

Fans lined up for picture taking that started at 7 p.m., followed by a question-and-answer session with the designer before the finale screening at 9 p.m., which meant that people who stayed home to watch learned of the results before most in the room.

I say “most” because those who really, really, really wanted to know who won needed only to have looked at Twitter or Facebook, where East Coast viewers had begun spilling the beans at 5 p.m. Hawaii time.

OK. I peeked. But I had a print deadline to deal with before I left the office for the event, though it was uncomfortable to interrupt him midway through the event to ask him the main question of how he felt about the results.

Models Momoko Metzker, from left, Nalani Ravelo and Kiani Yamamoto show designs from Andy's Fall/Winter 2010 collection, which he used to audition for "Project Runway."

In an interview prior to the event, Andy confessed to feeling relief that finale time had arrived and he would be free of the secret he’s kept for nearly two months.

But there was one other secret he revealed in his audition video, which was also screened for the audience. That is, he tries on all his designs, including gowns, and, oh Lordy, swimsuits!

“It’s fun!” he gushed in the video.

Prior to admitting guests, Andy dressed his models, including placing this rose headpiece on Daniela Voicescu, also below, for a fantasy ensemble. The pheasant feathers were from HCC professor Karen Hastings, which Andy dyed to suit his designs.

Another secret revealed when his mother took the microphone, was that even at age 4, he was already attracted to beautiful things. During a trip to Thailand, she said, the future designer admired the long nail ornaments worn by the Thai dancers, and told his mom, "I want those." When she said she would shop for them tomorrow, he said, "Now."

Andy with his mom Nora Sisounthone and her friend Robin Nanark.

After he got them, he put them on and tried to mimic the dancers' movements. Oh, and he also wore his sisters' dresses, which, broadcast to the room, made the designer bury his head on the floor, where he was sitting and watching the show unfold for the first time, just like the rest of us.

Somehow, that wasn't a shock after his saying he tries on all his women's designs, but there's a lesson in that for everyone else. Unless your mom is a public person, who understands the game, never let her tell stories about your childhood, when you were too young to self-edit! LOL!

Jenny Chen wore a lace top deemed "very Casanova," inspired by another of the "Project Runway" designers. Her cries of "Noooo," regarding the winner, echoed through the elevator and parking lot as I left the building. It was a little crazy as one guy zipped out of the parking lot without regard to people walking to their cars. There could have been a lot of dead stylists on the ground in his wake. Below, Casanova at work on his Episode 5-winning design.

Lifetime photo

There was a roomful of groans and “Noooo’s,” when viewers learned that Gretchen Jones had won the competition, but, ever gracious, Andy said he was happy for her, and thanked guests for staying out until 11 p.m. to watch the finale with him.

“This isn’t the end,” he promised. “Keep an eye out for my next project.” You can read more about what he's working on in the Sunday Star-Advertiser.

New Honolulu mayor Peter Carlisle was there, as was Malika Dudley. When I said to the mayor, "I didn't know you were a fashion fan," he was surprised. "Really? Look at me," he said.