Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Karl Lagerfeld designs for Macy's arrive

Macy's video still
Karl Lagerfeld poses with his model in one of his creations for Macy's Impulse department. The outfit she's wearing looks as if it comprises three separates, but is actually a one-piece dress ($139).

Karl Lagerfeld‘s capsule collection for Macy’s has arrived and I got a sneak preview at Macy’s Ala Moana Center store this morning. Don't rush in yet, as sales nationwide won't begin until tomorrow, Aug. 31.

The store and the Waikiki store, home to the Impulse department, will be carrying 30 pieces of the 45-piece collection. The looks feature the designer’s signature black-and-white suiting, high collars, "tweedy" poly-wool separates and dresses, romantic dresses and tees and tanks emblazoned with his image, recalling similar tees created for H&M a few years ago.

It's a great collaboration for those who have admired the designer's work, but could never afford his creations for Chanel, Fendi or his own eponymous line. The quality of the pieces is much better than designer collaborations I've seen at other mass retailers, with more detail and substantial fabric. I'm tempted by some of his fall shorts and white shirts that will go with a black waistcoat I'm picking up from All Saints.

Prices start at $49 for the tees, with dress prices ranging from about $119 to $139.

Video: Lagerfeld working on illustrations for Macy's. Click on the photo to see the designer at work.

Nadine Kam photos
At Macy's Ala Moana store this morning, Tani Lynn wears the dress modeled in the top photo, featuring Karl Lagerfeld's signature black-and-white, high-collared look. Morgan Clark wears a LBD version of the look.

Morgan shows a more casual look of a T-shirt ($49) bearing Lagerfeld's image, worn with leggings.

Tani Lynn shows a more romantic aspect of the collection. This dress is $119. More detail is show below.


Katie Min models separates of poly-wool belted vest ($79) and city short ($89).

Monday, August 29, 2011

Designer bootcamp put hopefuls on path to fame

iPhone photo
David Tyreman and Theo Garcia hold designers' attention at the "Launch Your Line Bootcamp" Aug. 27 at The Venue.

Designers got a practical earful during the "Launch Your Line Bootcamp" presented by Hawaii Red magazine and Hawaii Fashion Incubator Aug. 27 at The Venue on Bethel Street.

Fashion and branding experts Theo Garcia and David Tyreman of The World Famous Company where the speakers for the day. Although I had to leave midday for a prior appointment, I saw how the workshop's exercises, in which designers had to articulate their ideas to a partner, put the process of clarifying their ideas in motion. In trying to get the other person to understand their lines, they really had to focus on fleshing out ideas that often started out generic and nebulous, like "I design T-shirts."

One person said she wanted to start the next Crazy Shirts, but how does a person get there when there hasn't been a local T-shirt brand that has topped that name in more than 40 years? Another well-known local brand is Cane Haul Road, and more recently, Organik is making its name with its eco wear.

From a editor's point of view, there are hundreds of T-shirt companies out there, so you really have to differentiate yourself to stand out. Garcia said key to effective branding is honing in on your brand DNA. That is, your story and your values that go into painting a vivid picture of who you are as a designer and what your brand stands for. His belief, for instance, is that men should be peacocks and he brings processes he learned in childhood to his designs.

Designers also tend to live inside their own heads but it helps to read and know what's going on in the world. Garcia talked about trend spotting and it's really hard to spot trends if you're creating in a vacuum, without considering what's going on in media, film, music and the way people live in general. Companies like DKNY hire directors of inspiration to spot trends years in advance of various seasons.

About two years ago, I started predicting that a Hawaii moment in fashion was coming based on Hawaii's high profile in the long-running series "Lost," to the number of Hawaii designers who have turned up on "Project Runway," to the then-pending reboot of "Hawaii Five-O." In journalistic calculus, two events are coincidence, three mark the start of a trend. Then, when John Galliano sent tropical colors and hibiscus prints down the Dior Paris runway in fall 2010, it became literal.

Sunday, August 28, 2011

Singer memories wanted

Singer Sewing Co.
The first Singer sewing machine debuted in 1851.

The Singer Sewing Co. has launched www.my­SINGERstory.com, an interactive website that invites sewing fans across the country to share their stories and memories of Singer sewing machines in honor of the brand's 160th anniversary.

The website includes a historical feature that allows people to learn where and when their antique machines were manufactured by entering a serial number.

Anyone who uses the website will be registered to win one of the limited-edition commemorative machines to be made available in January. The commemorative machine will be technologically advanced, with an antique design and appearance true to the company’s iconic designs.

The 1940s Featherweight.

Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation seeks next design stars



Ecco Domani photo
Robert Verdi, center, with the 2011 Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation designers, from left, Kyle Fitzgibbons of Native Son, Maayan Zilberman and Nikki Dekker of The Lake & Stars, Tara St. James of Study NY, Mandy Coon, Marcia Patmos of M. Patmos, Bibhu Mohapatra and jeweler Pamela Love.

The Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation is giving designers the opportunity to join the ranks of some of fashion's biggest names by showing at New York Fashion Week

Since 2001, Ecco Domani Wines of Italy has helped to launch the careers of more than 60 renowned designers including Zac Posen, Proenza Schouler, Derek Lam, Rodarte, Erin Fetherston, and Alexander Wang. This year, a new class of seven talented emerging designers will be selected to each receive a $25,000 grant to show their collections during New York's Fall 2012 Fashion Week.

In 2012, seven designers (four womenswear, one menswear, one accessories and one sustainable design) will be selected and given the opportunity to present their work on fashion's biggest stage, New York Fall Fashion Week. Award recipients will be chosen by a panel of fashion experts who comb through hundreds of applications each year to identify the industry's future stars.

In addition to the application forms and recommendation letters, entrants will be asked to submit a 2- to 3-minute video describing their design aesthetic and why they deserve to be an Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation award recipient.

Interested candidates can find out more and download an application form at www.eccodomani.com. Closing date for submission is 5 p.m. EST on Oct. 14, 2011. Finalists will be announced in January 2012. Complete requirements and official rules are available online.

You can see previous winners' work on the website.

Tuesday, August 23, 2011

Prada fall men's collection arrives

Nadine Kam photos
Robert Gibson was among the Prada fans who showed up at the Ala Moana Center boutique Aug. 21 to view the fall men's collection, including the shimmery Lurex polo he's wearing. The statement fabric also appears in a long-sleeve style, ties, socks and womenswear.

Prada's Ala Moana Center boutique hosted a trunk show of its Fall-Winter 2011 men's collection on Aug. 21, giving fans an opportunity to show off pieces they had pre-ordered.

Lurex polos are already proving popular here, where the short sleeves can ease from late summer through the end of the year. Also on the racks were sweaters, suiting, denim and luxurious suede jackets with intarsia designs.

Of course I also gravitated to the women's area, where '70s-inspired drop-waist and Mondrian-style color-blocked dresses were being shown along with real and eco-fur capes, as well as eco-fur bags in to-die-for splashes of color.

From left, shoppers John Schamber, Wayne Yoshigai, Kimiko Hill and Richard Kuwada, already in pieces from the new Prada collections.




Prada photos
The Prada Lurex shirts as styled on the ready-to-wear runway.

Stuart Ing shows a Lurex tie with its small touch of shine for more conservative dressers.

There was a raffle for a Prada book, and Prada Area Manager Candace Konjevic presents the tome to winner Kimiko Hill.

Pages from the book trace Prada's nearly 100-year history, up to the present, including these sketches reflecting Miuccia Prada's fairytale inspiration for Spring 2008. The book, $125, is available at the boutique.

A couple of the Prada dresses for fall.

Prada photo
The strapped clutch is a woman's new shield. The large buttons on the dress are a key design element for fall at Prada, and the trompe l'oeil boot mimics the look of a grownup Mary Jane worn with knee-high socks.

Friday, August 19, 2011

Meet Q-Pot designer Sunday


Nadine Kam photo
In Waikiki Aug. 18, Q-Pot designer Tadaaki Wakamatsu shows pieces from his new Winnie-the-Pooh collection that will be in the store Sept. 21.

Q-Pot designer Tadaaki Wakamatsu will be at the Ala Moana Center store 1:30 to 3 p.m. Aug. 21 for a meet-and-greet with fans, as a thank-you for their support of his boutique since it opened last July.

Special offers during the occasion include making 12 of his Japan exclusive Brownie Macaron cell phone charms available, at $58 each; and a gift of the Q-Pot Mook Book, Vol. 3, with any purchase of $100 or more. The Q-Pot book and catalog comes with a Chocolate-print apron and mini bag.

The day after the earthquake, he had come up with Peace bands in his Chocolate design, with 100 percent of proceeds from sales of the $7 bands (so far amounting to $300,000) going to the Japan Earthquake and Pacific Tsunami relief effort to aid his country's recovery. A shipment of 500 bracelets to the Hawaii store sold out in a week.

The day after the earthquake, he had come up with a rubber bracelet in his Chocolate design, with 100 percent of proceeds ($300,000) benefitting his country's recovery. A shipment of 500 bracelets to the Hawaii store sold out in a week.

He and his staff spoke of the nation's resilience in light of disasters that have struck their country, as well as continuing tremors. Then they told me I should come visit them in Japan! I told them I would be so freaked out if I felt that rumbling.

Q-Pot photos
Q-Pot Peace Chocolate Wristbands sold out in a week locally.


A closer look at the Winnie the Pooh & Honey Necklace ($189), Winnie Pooh Honey Biscuit cell phone charm ($88) and necklace ($230).

Winnie the Pooh Honey Macaron cell phone charm ($61) and necklace ($115).

Tiffany Fall 2011 Leather Collection arrives

Nadine Kam photos
Tiffany Leather Collection designers John Truex and Richard Lambertson were in town to introduce the Fall-Winter 2011 designs. They're shown with their classic TRT (Tiffany Reversible Tote, small) in Tiffany Blue/Silver. My first encounter with the leather collection came at the Junior League of Honolulu's "Sacs in the City" event in March, where a version of the Avenue shopper in Tiffany Blue was the subject of a bidding war at silent auction. That led me to the store, where I picked up TRT in pink/metallic.

Tiffany Leather Collection designers John Truex and Richard Lambertson were at the Waikiki boutique Aug. 17, and the Ala Moana Center store Aug. 18, with a Waikiki reception later that evening to introduce the full Fall-Winter 2011 collection.

The introduction of the new line was a great opportunity for the two designers to build a collection seemingly from scratch. In my interview with John and story that appeared in the paper Aug. 18, he noted that of course with a history like Tiffany's, dating to 1837, there is an iconic association with its diamond engagement rings and wedding bands, silver and fine jewelry. But, because they are first and foremost a jewelry company, they had few signatures when it came to leather.

That left the designers free to create, and create they did. The collection is vast, covering the gamut from small leather goods, to shoppers, evening bags, men's leather bags and wallets to serious handbags from exotic leathers.

The very first collection caught handbag lovers' attention, and they're well on their way to achieving icon status equal to some of the best known bags of the last century. An amazing job for a line that's been public for only a year.

Its creation was just as fast. John said it took six months from their start to delivering samples, and a year for the first pieces to arrive at the store. With a company as big as Tiffany, that amounts to moving a mountain, with everyone from supply management team to marketing and advertising departments moving in unison.

Tiffany photo
TRTs (Tiffany Reversible Totes) in fall colorways, including Pesto and Light Walnut. Love the green, as well as the Bordeaux (not pictured)! Not quite ready to jump into fall, though. It's the summer light!

Truex and Lambertson's work for evening.

I love all the leather goods details that read "Tiffany," from silver-tone hardware to Tiffany Blue stitching, as well as discreet logo hardware. (Note that I have boosted the contrast to show the blue, which makes the silver appear black.)

Tiffany Vivian soft clutches for fall.

Confections in Tiffany Blue, served at the open house.

After a while, with Tiffany on the brain, I noticed that the color of the Ilikai is quite close.

A taste of the new at Made in Hawaii



Roberta Oaks photo
Roberta Oaks Country Romper is one of her new designs for Fall 2011.

Among vendors at the Made in Hawaii Festival today is Roberta Oaks, who'll be offering discounts to earlybirds who stop by her booth, #204.

The deals through 1 p.m. today, Aug. 19, include two racks of two for $110 items, 20 percent off her new fall designs, and a $30 dress bin. She'll be showing her men's designs as well.

The event at the Blaisdell Exhibition Hall continues to 9 p.m. today, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Aug. 20, and 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Aug. 21.


Also at the show, long-lived juice co. Hawaiian Sun is on a branding mission for a new era, coming up with a limited-edition T-shirt inspired by favorite local flavors.

The powder drink mixes are vitamin C-enriched, sweetened with natural cane sugar and without artificial colorings or flavors. Each pouch makes a quart-sized serving.

While there, check out their line of powdered drinks, all three days. Now that college students are headed back to school, the powders make it easier for those away from home to get a taste of flavors they grew up with and miss. Hawaiian Sun is in booths 407 and 408.

Flavors include Natural Iced Tea with Lemon, Pass-O-Guava Nectar and Pineapple Orange Nectar. e Vitamin C-enriched, sweetened with natural cane sugar and 100%-natural, without artificial colorings or flavors. Each pouch is ready-to-mix into water for refreshing quart-sized servings.

Wednesday, August 17, 2011

Can your wallet handle m-commerce?

Some seek stress relief in binge-eating; others, in shopping. That’s why a phrase like “retail therapy” exists.

I’m sure there are quite a few people who can barely pay their rent who nevertheless feel momentary joy when handing a sales associate their credit card. And a new mom I know—who pines for an iPhone while remaining true to her family’s budget—complains that she’s seen homeless people with iPhones.

Spending will get a lot easier now that shops are adopting m-commerce apps to streamline the buying process. It doesn’t get much easier than one-click buying tied to your credit card. Read this WWD article and beware: On the Phone: M-Commerce Is the Word

Then check out this amazing graphic to see which tactics have worked on you: How online retailers trick you into spending more

Wednesday, August 10, 2011

MiSH MaSH finds home downtown

Nadine Kam photos
At MiSH MaSH, Nicole Franco, left, rings up a sale for vintage fan Devon Hughes, who had to rush back to Chaplain Lane where she had a booth at the Shop & Bop event.

Etown is no longer at 1164 Smith St., but vintage fans can still get their fashion fix now that that Nicole Franco has moved in, finding a permanent spot for her previously mobile MiSH MaSH vintage boutique.

The co-founder and producer of Art and Flea, which takes place every fourth Thursday at Fresh Cafe, has a really good eye that's obvious in the small space where every piece is a hand-picked gem.

Before dropping in on her opening night First Friday, Aug. 5., I had been at Pacific Gateway Center's Lemon Grass Cafe for its celebration of Andy South's accomplishments. While there, I ran into stylist Tiare Thomas, fresh from the recent launch of her new website, TiareThomas.com, and we walked over to MiSH MaSH with photographer Travis Okimoto.

They thought it would be safer for me to walk with them, but I had to laugh. I'm way tougher than I look, having grown up pushing my way onto the school bus with Waipahu boys three times my size, vacationed in New York in the early '80s when Times Square was still sleazy and Central Park muggings were a norm, and famously walking home solo from concerts (subways stopped running before they ended about 2 a.m.) in downtown Washington, D.C., when it was known as the murder capital of the nation. Throw in times I've caught rides with strangers while traveling solo in the Southwest, and there are times I now think I could have easily been killed. After that, downtown Honolulu is so NOT dangerous.

While we were at MiSH MaSH, I noticed there were a lot of men taking a look, and Nicole has plenty of vintage aloha shirts for them, as well as jackets, vests and ties for those who enjoy getting dressed.

It's amazing that in such a small space, she really has something for everyone, including jewelry and accessories, of course, but also some ceramic and glassware, toys, books, records, vintage cameras and radios, and more.

Tentative hours are noon to 7 p.m. Wednesdays and Thursdays, noon to 8 p.m. Fridays, and Saturdays and Sundays by appointment by emailing mishmashshop@gmail.com. For more details, keep up with MishMashHawaii on Facebook.

Andy's fashion journey at First Friday

Nadine Kam photos
Who's that future design star? At least he grew out of rainbow prints and frilly cap sleeves; I never did!

Pacific Gateway Center welcomed designer Andy South at one of the first of its monthly First Friday festivities, celebrating "Andy South's Fashion Journey," from his humble childhood to "Project Runway" success.

The event took place Aug. 5 at the center-run Lemon Grass Cafe at 83 N. King St., where Andy's school, audition and current designs were displayed on manikins alongside videos of his work.

The choice to focus on Andy was not random. His family was among the thousands assisted by the center since the 1970s. His family arrived in 1975 as Laotian refugees in the aftermath of the Vietnam War. Though born here, the center continues to help South, housing his studio and helping him to find startup capital for his fashion business.

The center's executive director Tin Myaing Thein, Ph.D., said she remembers Andy—who hung out at the center because his mom worked there—as a roly poly child, and no one, not even his mom Nora Sisounthone, predicted fashion in his future. His success is the family's American dream come true.

Designer Andy South with his mom Nora Sisounthone, right, and family friends Grace Cheng, left, and Samaythong Nguyen. His mom, who overcame the adversity of arriving in this country as a refugee, shared her experience that "everything is possible" to encourage each of her children to dream big.

Andy's designs on display along with evocative video.

Stylist Tiare Thompson, left, was there to share the moment with Reise Kochi and Jill Misawa, who helped set up the displays, and fashion photographer extraordinaire Harold Julian, right.
At one point I sauntered over to the kitchen in hope of photographing Andy's mom cooking. She wasn't there but I did discover these Thai-Laotian tapioca mochi dumplings sa ku sai mu, filled with minced peanuts, vegetables and pork. So delicious! Eaten with wraps of cilantro and lettuce and roasted chili pepper.