Wednesday, December 30, 2015

Ari South speaks about style and transformation

Nadine Kam photos
Ari South spoke about her long journey to become authentic during Kit and Ace’s inagural speaker series talk.

BY NADINE KAM

Kit and Ace launched the first of its planned Speaker Series Dec. 17, featuring designer Ari South.
The event took place in the Ala Moana Center boutique, on the Macy’s end of the mall.

The intimate event brought together a guest list of people who touched South’s life in some way, ranging from school teachers, to fellow designers to the journalists such as moi who have covered her journey, ranging from the professional to the very personal. What for some would have been a private transformation became very public due to her high-profile design life.

She spoke with a sense of gratitude and humility as she gave her interpretation of “personal style,” which she said goes beyond fashion to define who you are and what you stand for.

If we haven’t seen her name mentioned much over the past year, she said it was because she needed time to focus on herself, away from the spotlight, reiterating the whirlwind that started with her casting on “Project Runway” as Andy South.

“It was the most challenging thing I’ve done in life. It was the hardest and most beautiful thing I’ve ever done and it pushed me to grow in ways I never could do in Hawaii. It took me from a pond and pushed me into an ocean.”

Ari was surrounded by a small, self-curated group of people who have supported and illuminated her journey.

At that time, Andy had been working for someone else and might have been content to do that for a while, but with “Project Runway,” “It was the first time I experienced stars lining up, and it was too perfect to deny. When things are too perfect that means they’re just right.”

She spoke of having grown up taught to think analytically, and having to let go of that to have the life she wanted.

“I learned to surrender to gut instinct and intuition.

“We should never be afraid of letting go of what were taught, but people are so afraid to consider other opinions as possibly being right.

“It’s not a matter of giving up your beliefs, but we really don’t know what we believe in until we can let go of old belief systems.”

The talk comes at a time when Ari, who made the transition from male to female, is addressing duality with the rebranding of her Andy South line as a men’s line, and the startup of her Ari South line for women.

Guests were welcome to help themselves to cocktail shrimp as big as lobster tails, from Bread + Butter.

I have written about South many times over the years, but for the first time heard the story about the little boy who was born to be a maker of things and felt most at home with a box of craft items.

“I loved classed projects. I watched HGTV. I learned to knit and crochet. I was always the quiet kid who did my own thing.”

Even so, the “little kid from Waianae” knew nothing of the fashion world. “I didn’t know it existed. I only knew you went to the store to buy clothes.”

At some point, he knew he was a girl, internally. “It was something that never caused depression, but I grew up with the understanding it wasn’t a good thing. I didn’t grow up with anyone transgender.
I didn’t know anyone transgender. I didn’t know the difference between transvestites. I didn’t think anyone transgender was successful.

Eagle-eyed Mahealani Richardson had a question about that ring Ari is wearing on a particular finger. It's symbolic of her comfort in living life without a partner, but the nurturing soul in her dreams of becoming a mother.

“It never brought me down. It was not something that caused me to feel sadness, but it was the missing piece. To have all this and not be in the right body, I don’t want it at all.”

All this was on Andy’s mind as he progressed through his season on “Project Runway,” and those who watched saw his muse as a warrior woman, a strong and open-minded citizen of the world.

“As I was designing, I realized I wasn’t imagining someone else. I was imagining myself,” she said. “Andy, defending himself with a mohawk, was a representation of everything we’re afraid of.”

Later, finding her style as a woman came with “extremely heavy” makeup. “I learned to paint from a drag queen. I didn’t want to look masculine at all.”

That eased up as she became more comfortable in her body.

“When I think about the idea of personal style, I look at my life starting as a chubby kid. I feel like I’ve lived multiple lifestyles. Personal style never changes, it just evolves. I’ve evolved and developed into who I was the whole while.

“So, when you’re talking about personal style, it’s not about, ‘I like to wear this,’ but who you are right now.”
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Nadine Kam is Style Editor and staff restaurant critic at the Honolulu Star-Advertiser; her coverage is in print on Wednesdays and Thursdays. Contact her via email at nkam@staradvertiser.com and follow her on Twitter, Instagram and Rebel Mouse.

Thursday, December 17, 2015

Kaypee Soh debuts SS2016 'Over the Rainbow' collection

Nadine Kam photos
Designer Kaypee Soh posed with one of his models, Tessa Goodwin, after the presentation of his Spring Summer 2016 “Over the Rainbow” collection. Tessa is wearing a denim spring jacket with multi-orchid flare, side-slit skirt.

BY NADINE KAM

Storm clouds loomed but in spite of a few droplets that fell before the start of Kaypee Soh’s Spring/Summer 2016 fashion show, the water flow stopped just before guests took their seats at the Laniakea YWCA on Richards Street. If it had been daylight, we might even have seen a rainbow arc across the sky, the inspiration for Soh’s “Over the Rainbow” ready-to-wear collection.

The designer was taken by the beauty of a double rainbow during one of his early evening walks along Ala Moana Beach. He offered up a small sampling of 10 ensembles during Honolulu Fashion Week last month, and those in the audience then were eager to see the full 37-piece collection.

Some of the models sported plastic-bill color visors during the show, which cast their rainbow hues onto their faces when they stepped under lights.

Emma Wo in Soh's multi-bloom box-pleat dress.

In his program notes for the event, he wrote: “I noticed how the colors in the rainbow appeared to be reflecting off the water and the plants around me. It was something I hadn’t seen or noticed before. I tired to create this same feeling by using varying tones of color on color in the fabrics I designed for this collection.”

He referenced chic, modern details from the 1960s through early 1970s to come up with his take on relaxed Pacific style encompassing dresses, accessories, separates, tees, vegan leather handbags, and men’s shirts, shorts and pants.

The show opened with a performance of “Somewhere Over the Rainbow” by kumu hula Robert Cazimero’s Halau Na Kamalei O Lililehua, with the men wearing Soh’s original hibiscus chambray wrap.

The setting added to the evening’s enchantment, and the site was chosen in part to honor its designer Julia Morgan. In a show of support for all women, the designer will be making a contribution to the YWCA.

Isabella Williams wears Soh’s Lilikoi Gypsy dress, already popular after its debut at Honolulu Fashion Week. One person from Dior came specifically to see this dress.

Allyson McIntyre wears Soh's yellow Orchid short puff-sleeve blouse with high-low maxi skirt.

Kasie Clark in Soh’s Indigo Bloom side-slit gown. Such beautiful flow when this moves.

Sydney Boder in in Soh's colorful twist on palaka. This is his version of a multi-color palaka maxi dress.

Kaitlyn Hitsman in Soh’s Midnight Orchid ruffle-pleat shirt paired with a mid-length skirt. I love the way the ruffle pleat fluttered when she walked. I love movement in clothing when people walk down the street. It’s so magical.

Men’s looks were also featured.
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Nadine Kam is Style Editor and staff restaurant critic at the Honolulu Star-Advertiser; her coverage is in print on Wednesdays and Thursdays. Contact her via email at nkam@staradvertiser.com and follow her on Twitter, Instagram and Rebel Mouse.

Wednesday, December 2, 2015

Collections of Waikiki stages best stylist challenge

Nadine Kam photos
From left, Meleana Estes, Tara Michie and Nova Rizzo competed for the title of Honolulu’s Best Stylist during a competition at Royal Hawaiian Hotel.

BY NADINE KAM

Before the runway shows at the Hawai’i Convention Center, Honolulu Fashion Week kicked off Nov. 19 with “Honolulu’s Best Stylist” challenge at Royal Hawaiian Hotel, a Luxury Collection Resort.

The Nov. 19 event took place in the open-air setting of the Coconut Grove, with three Honolulu-based stylists presenting looks in three categories: swim, island casual and evening resort wear, pulled from The Collections of Waikiki shops.

During the Swim segment of the competition, Haylee Kam—dressed in 1930s glam style by Nova Rizzo—modeled a one-piece swimsuit from San Lorenzo, Vivienne Westwood head scarf and sunglasses, Stupid Facotry bangles, and more jewelry from Maui Divers, Petit at The Royal and Hau’oli Waikiki.

The competing sylists:
—Nova Rizzo: Bblogger and founder of the96815.com
—Tara Michie: Creator and founder of LadySlider.com
—Meleana Estes: Freelance stylist and designer of Meleana Handbags


Non-flash video

Angela Maki Vernon and Jered Branco, manager of the Vivienne Westwood boutique at the Moana Hotel, were the emcees of the fashion show, which was sped up when the first of the weekend’s rains began.

That didn’t dampen the afternoon for Meleanna, who walked away with the title and grand prize of a three-night stay at the Royal Hawaiian.

Congratulations Mele!

Coincidentally, for a look at Meleanna’s collab with Bliss Lau during the finale of the Honolulu Fashion Week “Get OUt” runway show, visit here.

Models and stylists shared the stage before Meleana Estes, at right, was named the competition’s winner.

Estes with her model Mahina and event emcees Angela Maki Vernon and Jered Branco.

 Emma Wo goes island casual in this look styled by Tara Michie, comprising a Mikoh swimsuit and Acacia skirt from REBECCA Beach and Avanti aloha shirt. The ukulele is from Ukulele Puapua.

Mahina Alexander wears a T-Bags dress and gold sharkthooth hoops available at Malie Organics, and paired with mother-of-pearl horn clutch from Accents, a gold coutout diamond cuff from Abiste, and gold shell pendant from Sand People for an evening resort look styled by Meleana Estes.

With Erykah Badu as her muse, Tara Michie dressed Emma Wo in a Mikoh maxi dress and white scarf available at REBECCA Beach, accessorized with jewelry from Royal Selection, Martin & MacArthur, Accents and Maui Divers, plus Mary Frances clutch from Abiste.

In this ensemble styled by Nova Rizzo, Roycen Dehmer wears a mix of Reyn Spooner and Vivienne Westwood pieces, and carries a Rimowa briefcase.

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Nadine Kam is Style Editor and staff restaurant critic at the Honolulu Star-Advertiser; her coverage is in print on Wednesdays and Thursdays. Contact her via email at nkam@staradvertiser.com and follow her on Twitter, Instagram and Rebel Mouse.

Honolulu Fashion Week 2015: 'Get Out!'

Nadine Kam video still
Keke Lindgard opened and closed the “Get Out!” fashion show during Honolulu Fashion Week 2015, in a Bliss Lau x Meleana Estes lei dress.

BY NADINE KAM

The “Get Out!” show of casual wear by local designers that took place Nov. 21 during Honolulu Fashion Week 2015 is one of the most fun for me, just because Don Sumada’s styling echoes my aesthetic of fun, comfort apparel with a touch of shine, metal and glitz. And because I’m short, things that move and flow, like fringe and billowy fabric.

So funny because I hate to be noticed or for people to look at me, yet I like some loud pieces that are confusing to my friends, who ask, “Then why do you carry a shiny purse?” Or, in the case of daytime sequins in the blazing Honolulu sun, “You’re blinding me!”

I think that for many who are afraid of mixing and matching disparate pieces of clothing, the showcase is an eye-opener in how to elevate casual pieces. Yes you can mix camouflage and sequins, yes joggers and swimwear can look glamorous at night. Most importantly, yes local style can travel to any destination in the world.


Non-flash video

While so new to this town, Honolulu Fashion Week is an important time for everyone in the industry and people were talking about how hectic the weekend was in taking in four to six shows over two days. In the big picture, that is a snail’s pace. The last time at New York Fashion Week, I went to four shows a day, about 28 shows in all when there are well over 100 official shows going on.

The finale look by Meleana Estes and Bliss Lau, known for her body jewelry was a show stopper, a two-piece, resort-white peasant top and skirt worn by Keke Lindgard and draped in body “chains” of hundreds of bozu flowers strung into lei. It provided a moment of drama every fashion show needs.

 Paulina in a Moon Collective safari camo jacket, sequin skirt and Zacarias cube bag.

Travis in Moom Collective safari jacket and Honolulu City T-shirt.


This time, Kini Zamora and Manuheali'i's Danene Lunn were the only designers who had their own shows, but as brands grow I can see a day when dozens of homegrown talents are also able to send 40 of their own looks down a runway.

And, it was exciting to have New York Fashion Week creator Fern Mallis in the house, as well as the Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute curator in charge Harold Koda in town because I’m fascinated by costume and would have loved a peek behind the scenes at the museum collections. I feel lucky to have visited three of the Costume Institute shows during his tenure: “Chanel,” “Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty,” “Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations,” and “Punk: Chaos to Couture.”

I had the opportunity to interview him between the local shows. He was so humble and interesting, we ended up talking for an hour and I missed dinner, so I was starving. But that’s typical of fashion week, when in New York during that time no one has time to eat.

My interview with Koda, who’s retiring at year’s end, will appear in Thursday’s paper.

The New Yorkers: Honolulu-born Lynne O’Neill, executive producer of Honolulu Fashion Week, with Harold Koda and Fern Mallis.

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Nadine Kam is Style Editor and staff restaurant critic at the Honolulu Star-Advertiser; her coverage is in print on Wednesdays and Thursdays. Contact her via email at nkam@staradvertiser.com and follow her on Twitter, Instagram and Rebel Mouse.