Thursday, December 17, 2015

Kaypee Soh debuts SS2016 'Over the Rainbow' collection

Nadine Kam photos
Designer Kaypee Soh posed with one of his models, Tessa Goodwin, after the presentation of his Spring Summer 2016 “Over the Rainbow” collection. Tessa is wearing a denim spring jacket with multi-orchid flare, side-slit skirt.

BY NADINE KAM

Storm clouds loomed but in spite of a few droplets that fell before the start of Kaypee Soh’s Spring/Summer 2016 fashion show, the water flow stopped just before guests took their seats at the Laniakea YWCA on Richards Street. If it had been daylight, we might even have seen a rainbow arc across the sky, the inspiration for Soh’s “Over the Rainbow” ready-to-wear collection.

The designer was taken by the beauty of a double rainbow during one of his early evening walks along Ala Moana Beach. He offered up a small sampling of 10 ensembles during Honolulu Fashion Week last month, and those in the audience then were eager to see the full 37-piece collection.

Some of the models sported plastic-bill color visors during the show, which cast their rainbow hues onto their faces when they stepped under lights.

Emma Wo in Soh's multi-bloom box-pleat dress.

In his program notes for the event, he wrote: “I noticed how the colors in the rainbow appeared to be reflecting off the water and the plants around me. It was something I hadn’t seen or noticed before. I tired to create this same feeling by using varying tones of color on color in the fabrics I designed for this collection.”

He referenced chic, modern details from the 1960s through early 1970s to come up with his take on relaxed Pacific style encompassing dresses, accessories, separates, tees, vegan leather handbags, and men’s shirts, shorts and pants.

The show opened with a performance of “Somewhere Over the Rainbow” by kumu hula Robert Cazimero’s Halau Na Kamalei O Lililehua, with the men wearing Soh’s original hibiscus chambray wrap.

The setting added to the evening’s enchantment, and the site was chosen in part to honor its designer Julia Morgan. In a show of support for all women, the designer will be making a contribution to the YWCA.

Isabella Williams wears Soh’s Lilikoi Gypsy dress, already popular after its debut at Honolulu Fashion Week. One person from Dior came specifically to see this dress.

Allyson McIntyre wears Soh's yellow Orchid short puff-sleeve blouse with high-low maxi skirt.

Kasie Clark in Soh’s Indigo Bloom side-slit gown. Such beautiful flow when this moves.

Sydney Boder in in Soh's colorful twist on palaka. This is his version of a multi-color palaka maxi dress.

Kaitlyn Hitsman in Soh’s Midnight Orchid ruffle-pleat shirt paired with a mid-length skirt. I love the way the ruffle pleat fluttered when she walked. I love movement in clothing when people walk down the street. It’s so magical.

Men’s looks were also featured.
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Nadine Kam is Style Editor and staff restaurant critic at the Honolulu Star-Advertiser; her coverage is in print on Wednesdays and Thursdays. Contact her via email at nkam@staradvertiser.com and follow her on Twitter, Instagram and Rebel Mouse.

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